When I first started out on the natural path I had sooooo many misconceptions about what to expect.  Of course there were the negative myths that had been committed to memory over the years that everyone on this journey has to break through at one time or another; black hair isn’t “good” hair, straight hair is professional, natural hair equated to poor hygiene practices.  You all know the roll.  But those weren’t the misconceptions I’m speaking of.  Once I’d gotten to the point where I knew that my hair was just as beautiful in its natural state as it was when chemically relaxed, I began creating delusions of epic proportion that my maintenance practices would automatically result in Jill Scott type glory.  Having admired Jilly from Philly‘s tresses from a far for so many years, not because of the beauty of her styles but because of the apparent pride that emanates through her curls, when I stopped perming I was hyped up about getting to the stage where my hair could achieve such grandeurous states of design.  It wasn’t just Jill‘s coils I coveted, though.  Anytime I turned on the TV or saw a print ad that featured a woman rocking a well coiffed twist or braid out, or saw a natural sistah on the street sporting a fluffy fro or perfect puffs, I’d smile to myself and think, “Yeah…  That’s going to be me one day.”  But no matter how I manipulated my locks, how well I cared for them or how much I nurtured them, I just could not duplicate Jill‘s or Erykah‘s or even the lady on the Walmart commercial’s look on my own head.  Either my hair wasn’t long enough or it was too soft to hold the style, my curl wasn’t defined enough or the product didn’t work as promised.  The disappointments at not being able to get my hair to “act right” caused me to hate my hair for awhile, and for a very hot minute, had me undressing the yellow and purple Motions containers with my eyes whenever I saw them at my local beauty supply store. *lol*

I think all new naturals go through that stage.  As with anything, it’s really easy to foster unrealistic expectations of an experience if you’re only seeing the end result of it.  That is especially true when it comes to the natural hair experience.  It’s really easy to become discouraged when you put your time and effort into creating dynamic styles only to have them come off less than the perfection you desired.  I think this is part of the reason for the belief many hold that natural hair isn’t for everyone.  But the point many naturals (and non-naturals as well) miss is there is no one natural journey that is alike.  Because each of us possesses a different hair type and texture, it is our hair that has to be the standard when we style and maintain our hair.  Because each of the hairs on our head are as diverse as our individual spirits, we can only hope to get close to another’s results in their journey, and must learn to appreciate the ability of our hair for what it can do, not what we’d like it to do.  This can only be achieved by embracing the “now” of your journey and spending time to appreciate it while learning your hair at each stage.  Only through knowing your hair will you be able to realistically achieve styles that compliment you while displaying the unique glory of you.

During an interview with M. Michele George, author of The Knotty Truth, Chele, who has a head full of beautifully formed locs that lay well past her shoulders, we touched on this topic.  She recounted the numerous compliments she has received on her hair as it is now, and the various times she’s heard someone  say “I can’t wait till my hair gets to that point.”  While she appreciated the compliments, Chele never hesitated to keep it real with the commenter, advising them to go back and view the various pictures that showed the progress that led her up to the gorgeous locs she sports now.

“Whenever I tell someone to look at my progress during each step, they always thank me.  What many don’t realize is it’s all a journey.  In order to get here I had to go through the ‘unpretty’ stages of forming the locs, learning to tighten and maintain them… It was not easy, but it was going through those stages that brought me into an appreciation for my hair on its terms.”

There is nothing wrong with loving up on a fellow natural’s style and waiting to achieve it for yourself, but be mindful that your results may not be the same as hers (or his) because you are two different people with two different heads of hair and a multitude of other differing factors.  This goes quadruple for envying the style of your favourite celebrity, who has an entire glam squad in their employ to help them achieve their styles.

As with all things on the journey styling comes with patience, practice and knowing your hair.  Staying mindful of this will help keep you from getting discouraged when your attempts miss the mark of your expectations.

Healthy Hair Wishes,

The other day while I was cleaning up my Blogrolls, when I happened on a link to a Youtube video on Lady Kinnks’ Blog titled “Nappy Ass Hair” and clicked on it out of sheer curiosity.  What I saw both enraged and saddened me.

Posted there on Youtube, for the world to see, was a recording of a relatively “young” mother performing an act of child abuse under the guise of combing the beautifully full head of hair of what I assume to be her multi-racial daughter.  For approximately five minutes and eight seconds, this mother, who’s facial expression was one of fury reserved for a legitimate beef with an adult, uses a plastic bristled paddle brush to savagely rake through the child’s “dry” hair, oblivious to any snags or snarls, in a fashion that makes my own scalp hurt in sympathy.  In addition to this atrocity, behind the camera is the child’s aunt OLDER SISTER engaging in a bevy of belly laughs, guffaws if you will, at the child’s expense as the mother pins the child to her leg, the floor and the couch while grabbing handfuls of the child’s hair, uttering such phrases as “Move your fucking hand!” and “I’ll fuck you up!” to the screaming girl who could not be more than six years old… if that.  If that isn’t enough, at about FIVE MINUTES and ten seconds of this five minutes forty-six second video, a little boy, who could be seen running back and forth in front of the  camera and was alternately taunted by the aunt older sister about his turn coming up, is enlisted to wrangle the child back to her mother after she successfully breaks away.  His attempts prove futile after ten seconds, so the mother has no other choice but to get up and pull the child by her arms back to the couch, where she continues her assault.  This time with a pick.

NOTE: If you can not tell from the still above, the video is pretty brutal so I will not post it or a link to it here, but if you really want to see it, Google the video title and Youtube and it will be the first result, if it’s still there by the time this is posted.

From what I gather the original video was flagged as inappropriate and yanked from the site, but apparently someone else* got a hold to it and uploaded it again.  As you could guess, aside from a few yokels the responses to this video, both in text and via video, were filled with anger and disbelief at the mother, as well as sympathy for this girl.  I personally was livid and had to fight to hold back tears for this child I don’t know from Adam’s house cat.  The first thing that went through my mind was how could this woman who gave birth to and raised this little girl 1. treat her so brutally, 2. allow other family members to stand by and encourage the abuse while ridiculing the child, and 3. agree to this being documented via video and uploaded to the Internet.  The second thing that went through my mind was, thanks to someone else feeling the need to rebroadcast this vicious attack yet not REPORT IT, will this be used as an example to others as to how black mothers handle their child’s “nappy ass hair”?  Honestly, what I really thought was, will this serve as an example as to how all black mother’s handle their children, period?

While it is painfully obvious this mother — whose hair looks relatively neat, well cared for and “freshly” permed — needs more than a few parenting lessons, or  better yet, to be taken outside and having her “hair treated in the same manner” (read that as a metaphor for having her ass kicked),  it is also evident that this woman could stand a lesson on how to properly detangle and brush her daughter’s hair.  As far as the detangling lessons, what’s sad is there are tons of tutorials on the very same site the video was posted on, and at least three video pleas for the woman to contact them personally show her how it’s done.  Chances are the woman will never see the comments (the video was uploaded in mid July… there’s not one response from her at all) and thereby never get help with taking care of the little girl’s hair or being a better mother.

Even though the immediate physical and verbal abuse is apparent within the video, one can’t help but imagine the perceptions this girl will take  of herself into her teen years and womanhood.  On top of the overall stigmas attached to ethnic hair that are already prevalent in society, with her mother treating her hair as if it is an abomination and an inconvenience, there is no doubt in my mind that unless there is an intervention to stop this sort of treatment, that beautiful little girl will grow up fostering a deep disdain for herself by virtue of how she views her hair.  More than the violent combing of the child’s hair, this is the point that bothers me the most.  I took me over 30 years to consciously to accept my hair just based on society’s belief that black hair is “bad” hair.  I couldn’t imagine how long it would have taken if I’d suffered any personal “attacks” on that pinpointed my hair specifically.  It’s like this baby doesn’t have a chance, and it’s because of her mother‘s actions that she’ll fight a personal battle, possibly for the rest of her life.  My heart bleeds for her, especially since the baby’s only means of defense is to kick and scream and yell “I hate you!” at assailant; her mother.

If you have a chance to view the video, tell a friend and spread the word.  Not just to get the video flagged, which I honestly think should not happen in the event that someone who knows this mother and child and may get them both the help they need.  But spread the word so that all of us who embrace ethnic hair, whether relaxed or natural, know that this type of stuff is still going on within our community, placing five more bricks on the wall of ignorance for every one we try to tear down.  Spread the word so that the jealousy involved in pitting “good” hair against “bad” hair loses just a bit more strength between us, and hopefully stops being passed from mother to daughter.  And, if you watch the video, please come back and tell me what you thought. It would be much appreciated.

NOTE: After reading this blog post on TheRoot.com I have been made aware that the “mother” and child are from my home city, which hurts my heart to no end and makes me really take this personal.  Fortunately, the authorities were alerted (this gives me hope that Detroit isn’t fully dead).  For more information, surf on over HERE.  KinkyKeeper with comment #30 says it better than I ever could.  And sadly, it seems there was more than one video taken of this horror show.

Healthy Hair Wishes,

* The someone else who posted the video after it was taken down by administrators had this to say:

“its just a trip how the girl is actin all that screamin and stuff and throwing stuff cuz she dont want her hair brushed the little girl is actin way over the top and the mother means no harm.”

I’m sure HE posted it thinking it would get him a laugh or two from the Black community.  And that is really a damn shame.

Before making my decision to transition, one of my trepidations about sporting natural hair was not being taken “seriously” for my efforts.  As most of us on the journey know, the process of “going natural” is a transformation not just of your hair, but of your mind and spirit as well, and it is a very serious undertaking.  But my basic concerns stemmed from the just how seriously a lot of naturals take not just their process, but the natural process as a whole.  Perusing the various natural hair forums I noticed that there seemed to be so many (unofficial) rules and regulations attached to it all.  Don’t use these products or don’t try this style.  Loc immediately or don’t you dare loc until you know the historical/spiritual reasons behind it.  And of course never, ever, ever, in any type of weather use heat to style or dry, and straightening your hair by any means is punishable by death!  And along with those “rules” came the rule enforcers, known as Hair Nazis, who picked up the naptural baton and ran with it so tough, they manage to mow down anyone who challenge the established Nappy Commandments.  Apparently to them, there is a definite right and wrong way to go natural… and woe to those who find themselves on the “wrong” path.  If you have ever encountered a brother or sister of the NHN variety, you can understand how intimidated they can make a natural newbie our searching for the way that’s best for them. It was almost enough to make me turn tail and forget “going natural” altogether.  Luckily, I didn’t.

When I finally made my decision I followed certain HN rules to the letter.  I ran from any product using mineral oil, I adopted the terms “creamy crack” and “chemical fire cream” into my lexicon, and in solidarity with my brothers and sisters going through the struggle, I (secretly) scoffed at any person of colour who took the chemical relaxer/texturizer route.  It was what I felt I had to do to fight the bill of being “natural.”  Because there are so many politics connected to African-American hair, and it is used as a definer of what it means to be “black”, there are many passionate opinions about how we wear our hair and what it says about us.  In the beginning, straight was the way of the hair world, and anyone  who did not “conform” to this view was seen as ignorant, unkempt and low class.  But as we came into our own and began to embrace the tresses G_d gave us, it seems the tables have turned.  Now it’s the nappturals who are looking down their noses at users of relaxers, claiming that because they choose to alter their hair selling out or self hating.  Seems a hypocritical turn of events to me, even when I was exhibiting such behaviours, but because “going natural” is such a passionate endeavor, it’s easy to understand how quickly one can become a Hair Nazi, and maintain that position throughout their journey.  But is it fair?

In the past year and a half I have relaxed a lot of my blanket opinions on the subject of hair.  As I’ve said, the natural process — no matter how you go about it — if a very personal one that will bring up self image issues you never thought you had.  As you learn your hair, you learn yourself and begin paying closer attention to just what your whole body (mind and spirit) need to be whole and authentic.  It is also a very time consuming undertaking with its search for just the right product or style and maintenance regimen, and can sometimes take over the lives of the undertaker.  And once they have found their very own Holy Grail of hair care and are loving their hair and yourself completely, it’s very easy for to take the enlightenment they’ve gained and try to apply it to everyone else who is walking the path “with” them.  The excitement bubbles over, and they are just sure what works for them is then end all, be all of the natural journey… totally forgetting that the natural process is a personal one, all across the board.  Not just because each of us has a different “grade” of hair sprouting from our scalps, but also because each of us has our own thoughts and feelings about what it means to go natural.  Even more, all of us have different thoughts and feelings about hair period, whether it be relaxing for manageability’s sake, texturizing for styling purposes or allowing it to exist in its natural state.  In that respect, who can really say which is the “right” way to wear your hair, or which is the “wrong” way to go natural?

In the realm of the natural journeyer specifically, because cultivating natural hair is such a personal practice, each person deserves the opportunity to experience it in a way that is best for them and them alone.  Incidentally, there is no right or wrong way to do this, there is only what works for their particular hair type, lifestyle and personality because all are as different as our hair composition.  Contrary to popular belief, not all of us are poetic songwriters, not all of us are uber Pro-Black and anti-establishment, not all of us desire locs or Afros, and sometimes some of us like the versatility of our hair temporarily straightened.  Furthermore, when it comes to products, many commercial items that contain those “no no” ingredients most HN’s sneer at work just fine for natural hair and have been for the entire journey of some, so they feel if the routine ain’t broke they shouldn’t fix it.  I agree with them.  If you have found the path that fits you, that is wonderful.  Now allow others to do the same.  Offering advice here and there when a question is posed to you is helpful, but providing a dissertation of just why you swear by Miss Jessie’s Curly Pudding and why anyone who uses any other product is going to Black Hair Hell in a hand basket is not a good look.

I guess, in conclusion, what I’m really trying to say is… live and let live and recognize that another person’s hair choice is as much their right as your’s is your’s.  All you’re doing with your judgments and blanket evaluations is repeating what the world has done to “us” concerning our natural hair for centuries, by telling others that they’re “living wrong” if they don’t fit into your preconceived box.  If it was wrong for society to do it to us, what makes you think you’re justified?

Just my buck fiddy.

Not sure whether you’re a Hair Nazi or not?  Well Urban Curlz has put together a “You Might Be a Hair Nazi” list that might help.  Or at least give you a few laughs.

Healthy Hair Wishes,

While taking a spin through my list of Journey Peeps, I happened upon Afrobella’s entry concerning Trya Banks’ Good Hair episode which aired May 12th.  Since I rarely keep up with the latest and greatest in Boob Tube land, I was unaware of the show until today, and when I was made aware of it I thanked all my lucky charms that I did not witness it first hand.  Just the few minutes of clip I caught on AB‘s site was enough to make me want to write Tyra and her producers and ream them for airing such ignorance in the guise of a legitimate issue. What potentially could have been a blockbuster show, beginning with a young woman’s desire to transition to natural after suffering years of damage because of perms and going on into the “meat” of why hair matters so much in the African-American community, went much the same way as the PBS “interview” about Michelle Obama’s impact on black hair issues.  Down in flames, and a lot of commenters on Afrobella‘s site and the Tyra show’s site agree.

First off, Tyra with “for show”  corn rows when her normal style is bone straight lace fronts or hyper teased curly weaves?  Giving consideration to the fact that she was “playing the part” in concert with the topic of the show (as we Archer’s are known to do… although she didn’t pull it off convincingly enough for me) I was able to let that slide, because Tayheedah’s issue was the real topic at hand.  But then Shay got to talking about her “white girl flow” and Ahkia began rattling off a laundry list of adopted stereotypes as to why straight hair is synonymous with good hair, and I began to hear my pulse in my ears.  As if that wasn’t enough, there was only ONE natural sister on the initial panel, and she was so anti-chemical hair altering that you’d have thought the makers of Dark ‘n Lovely had car jacked her on the way to a Black Panther Party.  And hear tell it, the ratio of “naptural” was woefully lacking  in the realm of show guests, with the one sistah I did see (Kelley) sporting locs and possibly as far removed from knowing her hair texture personally as the first two women on the panel.  Again, I am thankful I did not see the show in its entirety, but even the 8.05 minutes that I was witness to was 8.04 minutes too much.

As I look at my calendar yet again to reassure myself this is indeed 2009, the question of why the good hair vs. bad hair topic is still a hot button issue echoed through my gray matter.  And it’s no longer just the Perm & Weave Brigade with their silky tresses who are professing to be on the side of the good while us natural sistahs are on the side of bad.  Nope, the Nappy Nazis  seem to have done a second “n-word” flip and crucifying those who dare pick up the “creamy crack” habit, and are now proclaiming natural good and chemically altered bad. Seems the spin on this one is spinning out of control and it’s really a shame.  Isn’t the fact that anyone has hair when they have it a good thing?  That’s what my Grandude used to always say.  The way I see it, whether hair is kinky and curly, straight and snarly or feather light and fly away, if it grows, is healthy and properly maintained then it’s all good.  Hell, even bald is beautiful if you ask me, but that’s another topic for another day.  So, with all hair being good on it’s own merit, why are we still having this debate with ourselves and the world at large?  And even beyond that, why, even when on such nationally syndicated stations such as NPR and shows as Tyra’s (I think Oprah did a similar show a couple of years ago as well),  why is the surface only skimmed and why are there never any concrete answers that materialize from the discussion?

I personally am sick of it all.  The good hair versus bad hair issue has been going on far too long for us to 1. not take off from the superficial points of it and  dig further to the core of the topic, 2. find reasonable elucidation for carrying this into yet another century, and 3. eradicate it once and for all.  One of my missions while on this journey was to personally understand the history of black hair in America for this very reason.  It has never been my intention to “go natural” for socio-poitical or fashion reasons, but before I could fully understand the process and break away from the stereotypical misconceptions surrounding black hair, I had to properly educate myself.  It was through this process that I was able to break free from the good hair/bad hair stigmas and move into an appreciation for hair period.  To me, how you choose to where your hair is a personal preference, no more linked to racial authentication or self acceptance than the style of clothing we choose to wear. If we are going to partition, let’s do it along the lines of healthy hair vs. unhealthy hair, or healthy self image views vs. unhealthy self image views.  Isn’t that what this really boils down to once we get past the relaxer fumes, tracks, fros and locs.

I would love to see the day when black hair is taken deeper than the tips and on down to the roots.  I will be overjoyed when, since we know where all the hoopla started, we collectively and nationally combine the sides of black hair, and put the division to rest.  Call it a beautiful dream, but I’m sure we can achieve it, once we begin to fully represent what black hair “means” and demand that platforms like The Tyra Banks Show, The Oprah Show and other media mediums do so as well.

Healthy Hair Wishes,

She’s smart, she’s sassy and she is married to one of the sexiest black men ever born (in my not so humble opinion *lol*).  She’s Michelle Obama, and she’s our country’s first African-American First Lady.  Understandably, because of her position she is pretty much considered the national representation of what it means to be a black woman in American, something that is both fortunate and unfortunate, depending on how you look at it.  On the fortunate side, Michelle’s poise, intelligence and sense of integrity show the world at large that the black woman is capable of more than what certain detractors believe.  On the unfortunate side, we are all individuals incapable of comparative assumption based on just one model.  But be all that as it is, the way the world works, Michelle is the African-American woman of the moment, and from where I’m standing, she seems to be doing a damn good job of breaking certain stereotypes.

The other day as I was researching information on how hair changes during various stages of our lives, I happened upon an NPR podcast entitled “The ‘Obama Effect’ On Black Women’s Hair Issues.”  Of course this piqued my interest considering all the stigmas surrounding hair, as well as how politically charged the topic is.  So I figured there’d be some real exchanges between author and Newsweek correspondent Allison Samuels and celebrity stylist Marcia Hamilton (who has the worse Myspace page I have ever seen… just saying) concerning real issues concerning women of colour and their hair, and how The First Lady’s example can possibly set the record straight on the matter.  I shared the link via Plurk and Twitter with fellow Nappies, hoping it would start serious dialogue or provide enlightenment on one level or another, then settled in to listen.

What followed once I pressed “listen” was approximately a two minute mention about Michelle’s hair, a three minute gloss over of the negative odiums attached to black hair, and twelve minutes worth of weave discussion!  Yes, you read that right.  An impromptu dissertation on which type of weave works best for which style, how to care for weave and what to expect from your weave stylist.  I had to check the title a couple of times, as well as share it with a few more people, just to make sure I had not gotten the wrong impression of what the discussion was supposed to be about.  Here is the page blurb, which further made me assume the discussion would contain some “meat” and real introspection:

Whether a press and curl, relaxer, Afro or weave, the relationship between African-American women and their hair has always been a complicated one.

As the first African-American First Lady, Michelle Obama has encountered her own share of scrutiny over the decisions she makes with her hair.

NPR’s Allison Samuels and celebrity stylist Marcia Hamilton explore the issues of African-American women, hair care, and Michelle Obama’s sartorial influence.

So naturally, my assumptions were justly based, right?  And the comments were almost as idiotic as the segment itself.  Some were outraged that Michelle was “used” as a hook for the segment, others complained that there were more important matters at hand than Michelle’s hair, and still others maintained offense at the preposterous weave advice.  Understandably, the comments were closed after thirteen.

I swear, “we” have made some impressive strides in bringing black hair issues to the forefront and breaking down certain negative stigmas surrounding black hair, yet still carry around their implications.  Instead of openly discussing them we end up discussing ways to skirt around them, such as what happened in this “interview.”  Why is so much weight placed on black hair, particularly by black women?  Why, even after coming to a point where we know we are not our hair, is it still the number one “character definer?”  You see a woman with an Afro or locs, you immediately assume she’s a political activist or a poet.  See a women with weave, you automatically assume she’s high maintenance.  Permed hair, all depending on which side of the hair divide you’re on, she’s either “conforming” or “defying.”  With the rise of more women sporting natural styles we’re coming somewhat close to a place where our hair is really just our hair, but for me… not fast enough, it seems.

It’s a damn shame that Michelle, who is a caring mother, a loyal wife and lawyer educated at Princeton and Harvard, is now carrying the proverbial weight of black hair and black hair care assumptions on her head — a long with Sasha and Malia — even before we have properly demystified what the hoopla is all about.  Sure, hair plays a significant role in the lives of every woman, but when it comes to the black community, the question of why is never uncovered in clear enough terms.  Some say it’s a spiritual thing, others a political thing, others purely personal or heritage based.  There’s never one concrete reason why hair matters so much.  This may be because while all our reasons for how we feel about our hair are similar, they are as different as the ways we choose to wear our hair.  So to look at Mrs. Obama as the Black Hair Ambassador and draw blanket conclusions on black hair and grooming is not just unfair to her, but takes the individuality away from us all.

I hope having Michelle as the First Lady helps encourage real dialogue about black hair and beauty issues that have alluded us for so long.  I think it will, as long as we don’t stick a push pin in her likeness declaring her the primary representative for how we should wear our hair.  Because while she is black, and she does have many of the same issues most of us do, it needs to be recognized that Michelle Obama’s hair is not “black hair.”  It’s Michelle Obama’s hair.  Nothing more, nothing less.

Healthy Hair Wishes,

I came across the above statement on one of the social network sites I frequent.  The five word sentence was responded to by another that declared “perms” the necessary alternative for certain “unfortunate women”, and from there  an abundance of similar statements were added.  For a good minute I pondered over the specific meaning of the initial asseveration. Did it mean that it is to be believed that for some people, the curls and abundant thickness that sprouted from their scalps in utero and had been allowed to mature from the moment of their birth until whenever they chemically treated their hair is, in fact, not fit for them to proudly sport unaltered?  Well that’s not a new assertion, actually.  Since being brought to this country African-American hair has been like a brand and made into the hallmark of all things bad, ugly and wrong.  Nappy hair has been the one thing that has made us largely identifiable in slavery times, as well as the negative connotation placed on it.  White beauty has been the “right” beauty for so long so the statement was “understandable” in a sense, but I found that after all this time and all the strides that have been made to break the mental chains attached to our appearance, both statements (along with a good fifteen or twenty other responses posted by persons of colour), it’s sad that this represents how we still view being “ourselves” today. That’s deep.

Initially I brushed the comment of as simple social network blather designed to catch the attention of bandwagoners.  Being that I have been doing the natural thing by the seat of my pants for two years I’m not immune to the ignorance surrounding the natural hair of African-Americans.  As previously stated, the disavowing hair associations all started as a means to keep us feeling inferior and “in line”, then “somehow” got adopting into our direct culture as socio-political gospel (two of the books I am reading now for research — Hair Matters and Hair Raising — outline this process from its inception).  It’s all historically founded and widely understood, so the yardstick by which we measure each other’s character based on hair is damn near as old as time and unconsciously accepted.  But the more I thought about the implications of the social networking call and response, I began to get irritated, and then outright angry!  Of course it wasn’t just because I’m a naptural.  Couldn’t be, because I KNOW I look damn good with my unaltered tresses, no matter who has what to say about it. *snap snap* The reason I got angry was that in one hundred forty-four years the idea that what is good for European-Americans as the mark of beauty and assent, is still what we consider the pinnacle of what’s par for us.  How ludicrous is that?  Yeah, yeah, yeah… Three hundred years of slavery and oppression, having that “beat” into “our’ heads (and onto out backs), and yadda, yadda, yadda.  It’s so ingrained in us that we’re now doing the divide and conquer work for “them”, whoddie, whoddie whoo.  All of that is well known and recognized, but I wonder when it will stop being perpetuated and when we will embrace how we are.  Damn the antagonistic history, why aren’t we looking to the affirming history of the accomplishments post slavery that have created a new standard of beauty and acceptance for us, by us.

Hey, ya’ll remember back one year, eleven months and twenty-eight days ago when while live on air, radio personality Don Imus used the words “nappy headed” when referring to the Rutgers’ women’s basketball team.? Remember how in an uproar not just the African-American community, but the world was about it?  Well yeah, he also used the word “ho’s” in there too, but I don’t think he would have received even a quarter of the flack he did had “nappy headed” not been appended.  It’s because the word nappy dredges up unpleasant perceptions that have been burned into our psyche about what having tightly coiled hair was said to represent and has been fashioned to say about us.  Immediately, and justifiably, of course, Imus was virtually bitch slapped with reprimand from not only his employers, but “nappy headed” people worldwide, cause what he said just was not right.  But what I cram to understand is why the statement made by the random social network detractor was not treated with the same disdain.  He/she/they essentially said the same thing in different words with a less defamatory tone (in a sense).  At least it seemed that way to me.  Probably because Imus was white, and since the originator of the statement — that ended up in a discussion and several other posts on a different site — was of colour he/she/they felt more entitled to say such a thing because they could relate by proxy.  Seems like double standard BS to me, or maybe I’m just being hypersensitive.

Suffice it to say, I think the statement was beyond ignorant and  narrow minded.  To say the protein strands that emanate from a person’s body by design, something that is as much a part of their chemical makeup as their nails and skin, is not right for them is to cut them from being who they wholly are.  Who has the right to make that judgment?  And it always seems this assessment only made towards women?  I don’t see men being urged to “get a perm” or “slap in a weave” as the ultimate solution to combat the truth of their heritage when it begins to show on their heads.  Sure there are chemical “solutions” geared towards the male consumer, but on a wider scale all most men need is a simple trim and line up, a tightening trip to their braider or loctitian, or a good stiff brush and wave cap to keep them looking their personal (or socially acceptable) best.  While a lot of men do go the texturizer route, the campaign for them to alter their hair in the name of appearance propriety in no where near the level of what we women have to “fight” against.  Yet another double standard.

There were a couple of replies made that spoke of certain women thinking “going natural” meant they didn’t have to properly maintain their, which I have been witness to.  But that speaks more of grooming than being “natural”, doesn’t it?  There were also responses that decried the appearance of certain women wearing Afro’s or washouts or cropped brush cuts that just didn’t “fit well” with their head or of face shape.  But that has to do with style more so than being “natural”, right?  I think had the comments been expressed in those contexts, I would not have been as upset because I more than agree that every style does not work well with every head.  And no matter if you are relaxed or nappy, an unkempt head just is not the business.  But I feel it is unjust to say natural isn’t for every woman of colour who chooses to take the journey, educates herself on proper maintenance methods to keep her “crowing glory” looking right and takes pride in being able to say she’s proud of her 100% unaltered kinks and coils, despite what history tried to make her believe they said about her.  Sounds like someone needs to take a check of the reality they are constructing for themselves, and stop trying to project it on those who are just trying to “be.”

Notice you don’t see our Euro-American counterpart telling each other that type of BS.  Take note, and break the chain.

Healthy Hair Wishes,

In  continuing the celebration I am having about my successful twisting progression, and in light of the change I’ve made in the product I use to create the twists, I figured I’d do a comparison of :

I’ve had almost a year of practice with Two Strand Twists now yet really didn’t do any major experimenting with various products in order to get the process of twisting down to a science.  Now that I’m pretty much a vet in the twisting game I felt it necessary to branch out a bit and see what else was out in the natural hair ether that I might want to try or recommend.  So first up:

I’d started out with Natural Hair Care Organic Root Stimulator Lock & Twist Gel simply because I’d seen it in Family Dollar and didn’t know any other product to use to accomplish the style.  I’d read various sources that stated using aloe vera gel works, as well as simply twisting the damp hair upon itself sans any sort of product, but I wanted to make sure my twists stayed twisted… especially since I had no clue what I was doing.

First consideration, of course, was ingredients and making sure none of the components made the “Don’t You DARE Put This In Your Hair” List from Nappturality.com‘s forum.  The list of suspects read as such:

Water Aqua , Coconut Milk (Cocos Nucifera) Extract, Soybean Oil (Glycine Soja) , PVP* , Polyquaternium 37*, Propyl Paraben, Methyl Paraben , DMDM Hydantoin, Propylene Glycol, Fragrance Parfum , Sucrose

* Polyvinylpyrrolidone

* A fatty alcohol which promotes body

That first ingredient is exactly what I was looking for, since I know water is hair’s first love, and the second caught my eye because I have fallen in love with how my hair reacts to coconut milk.  The rest didn’t seem too harmful so I took the plunge.

NOTE: When it comes to hair care products, it is good to be aware of what you are putting into your hair, thereby putting into you system… However, do not make the mistake many Napturals who take avoid certain products to the extreme because there are one or two ingredients on the “danger” list in your products.  Chances are, the amount of said ingredient is low (keep in mind that ingredient lists are compiled from chief to lesser active).  So shop smart, read labels and do research of your own before writing certain products off completely.

For the most part I was pleased with this product.  It’s petroleum-like consistency combined well with water (since it is water based) and held my twists well enough without dripping all over and resulting in a sticky mess.  Once dried the gel did not flake or cake up on the portions of my scalp like a lot of gels have been known to do, but I did notice that the longer I kept my twists in, the drier my hair became, which I did not like at all.  When it came time to do a twist out, I did not like the fact that they were generally semi-straw like to the touch, making it necessary to add an additional moisturizing product to each wavy strand and at times turning the curl into a frizzy poof.  This was not the case each time I used the gel, since I began to learn the proper balance between product and water which worked well for my hair, but it was the case more times than not.

Upon researching the product a bit closer via OragnicRootStimulator.com, I learned the company the makes the Natural Hair Care Organic Root Stimulator line is Namasté Laboratories, LLC, an Illinois based company that has been in the hair care business since 1996.  Beyond their Website, I couldn’t find very much information on the company itself, but here is their mission statement:

Organic Root Stimulator™ products were conceived, developed and marketed by Namasté Laboratories, LLC.  Namasté is a Hindi term which means “to bow to the divinity within.”  At Namasté Labs we interpret that to mean “to serve the beauty within,” which is accomplished through a new and exciting hair care system — Organic Root Stimulator™ — that gets to the root of healthy hair.

Namasté Labs was founded in 1996 to address the needs of the health-conscious, multi-cultural consumer market.  Namasté is dedicated to identifying holistic, innovative remedies for the healing and renewal of hair, skin and body.  This philosophy has made us a leader in natural, therapeutic health and beauty aids.

Namasté boosts and impressive product line, catering to both natural and relaxed hair, despite me never having heard of the company beyond the products I see in stores.

All in all, Natural Hair Care Organic Root Stimulator Lock & Twist Gel works as it should, and with a price tag of $3.99 per 13 oz. tube it is a highly affordable option that will last for a good amount of styles sessions, dependent your hair length and how much you use per twist.

Now, I didn’t switch products out of necessity, because the NHCORS brand was working pretty good for me, but one day while I was out, I happened on the Murray’s Loc-Lock Gel and felt the need to check it out to broaden my product knowledge base.

Upon first look, the ingredients between the two gels are relatively close:

Aqua Water, PVP, Soybean Oil, Fruit Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Triethanolamine Carbomer, Panthenyl Ethyl Ether, Kertin Amino Acid, Parfum

Again, water’s the chief ingredient, so I was good on that, and although like the aforementioned gel there are two “danger” ingredients, I was really liking the tri-oils at the top of the component list.

Next, I took a look at the actual product and was further impressed with its actual gel-like consistency, which I knew would prove to be lighter than Natural Hair Organic Root Stimulator‘s brand.  Upon usage, because it to is water based, it worked well with the water in my hair, but I didn’t have to use as much water because I didn’t have to break the Murray’s down hair the way I did the thicker gel.  When applied to the hair I was not left with a slick, greasy feel on my fingers, and it seemed the gel was immediately absorbed into the hair upon contact.  Holding of the twist was apparent all the way down to the tip of the hair shaft, and the gel dried clean without flaking.

So far it seems both gels are equally par for the purpose of twist, locs and braids… and for the most part they are.  But what gives the Murray’s brand the advantage is it did not leave my twists with the dried straw feel once they dried!  I didn’t use any moisturizing agents prior to twisting, although I did coat each twist with a bit of Carol’s Daughter’s Healthy Hair Butter yesterday, but prior to that, my tresses were soft and fluffy-like as if I’d submerged my hair in water!  And when I did my twist out… AY DIOS MIO:

I cannot believe how lusciously defined each ringlet is, as well as moisturized and frizz free!  So performance wise, the Murray’s brand will be my twist gel of choice in the future.

On the company side of this product, I am extremely familiar with Murray’s Worldwide Inc. from growing up seeing their orange wave pomade tins around the house (any of ya’ll out there with brothers who were brush wave die-hards like mine was knows what I’m talking about).  Additionally, it’s a Michigan based company — Metro-Detroit, to be specific (Oak Park) — that has been in business since 1925 (first in Chicago then in Detroit in 1959), which speaks volumes of Murray’s product line to me personally.

The philosophy of the company, per MurraysPomade.com, which has been the same since C.D. Murray started selling the products out of his barber shop in the 1920′s, is yet another reason I feel in love with the gel:

Murray’s is committed to producing high quality products, that consumers demand, at fair prices. We will operate our business with honesty, integrity, and treat all of our distributors with respect and fairness.

You can’t beat longevity when it comes to a company that produces something as intimate as products you use on your hair and skin.  Evidently, they’ve got to be doing something right to have lasted so long.

Price wise, in comparison to the NHCORS brand, Murray’s is a bit more expensive considering you’re paying an average of $3.40 for each 8 oz. jar.  But personally, considering how well it works with my hair and the fact that I only need to use a dap per twist strand to receive maximum results, I don’t mind the quantity difference for the price.  I have had a tub of the NHCORS brand since May 2008 and am just now close to depleting it, but haven’t made a dent in the Murray’s yet, so that tells a lot about the quality, which is far more important to me than quantity.

In addition to the twist gel, I also picked up a bottle of Murray’s Liquid Beeswax Anti-Itch Formula to correspond with the gel for retwisting, if I wanted to keep the twists in longer than my normal four days.  I used it yesterday and was pleased with the results… no stiffness, maintained softness, no frizzies, and glorious sheen!  A wonderful combination of beeswax and essential oils provides a light and healthy dressing that aids in keeping your twists or locs “tight”.  A great companion, indeed.

So there you have it.  Two gels designed for the same purpose, and my personal pick between the two.  As I said previous, both gels get the job done, and the result that I had with them both may be different for someone else with a different hair type than mine.  But both are well worthy the purchase if you wish to twist.  You may even want to do a comparing experiment of your own to see which one works best for you.  If you do, I’d love to hear your results here, or via email at amichelle@journeyback2me.com.

Healthy Hair Wishes,

I was on the phone with my mother a couple of weeks ago, and she was explaining to me how “horribly” her first attempt at two strand twists turned out. She said, and I’m paraphrasing here, they made her look like “Buckwheat on crack.” She laughed, and I giggled, remembering my initial reaction to my first twists. Of course, my mother’s hair is a whole lot finer than mine, and I’m not quite sure what product she used to set the twists, but I can imagine the results quite vividly. I’m sure they looked just fine, but sight unseen, I can’t say that with any amount of authority.

Suni, a friend of mine also going through the journey from chemically processed to natural, expressed the same sentiment after her first try at twists. Since her hair is a mish-mash of cultural textures, and she didn’t think to take pictures (BAH!), I can’t say one way or the other whether her attempt was a pass or “fail”, but like with my mother, I am sure they looked just fine to the outside eye.

More than anything, it’s the personal perception of natural “do’s” that constitutes a person’s rating of how good they look. Actually, that’s only half true. Most of our qualms about natural hair styles are based on how others will think we look, in the face of society’s “straight” beauty standard. While natural black hair is becoming all the rage in certain sects (maaaaaaaan I can not WAIT to get to DC), it’s still a relatively new and controversial personal concept to grasp. It’s one thing to be openly natural at home, with family members who understand what you’re trying to accomplish and why. But to be natural in the streets… open to all the misconceptions, negative opinions, and criticisms… Let’s just say my wraps are like an American Express card for me. I never leave home without them!

So is this to say we “newbies” live in shame of our nappiness? That we dishonour our natural attributes by not sharing our tresses with the world at large? Do we so prize our vanity boosted by other’s perceptions over being prideful in who we really are from root to tip? I don’t think so. But this journey is such a personal one, and the slope can be a slippery one to climb at times, since self esteem is so closely linked with how we look in the eyes of others (kinda bass ackward, but it is what it is). Often times we have expectations of our hair based on the beautiful stylist result pictures we see in media such as this…

or this

That’s a lot of pressure for hair to live up to when all you have is inexperience and your own two hands, eh?

But all is not lost, my natural sistahs (and brothers, if any of you read this). As I’ve said before, this process takes practice and patience. Remember, you are relearning your hair… getting to know it as it is for quite possibly the first time in years! And like any growing relationship, there is going to be an awkward phase where those “undesirable” qualities show themselves, and you are faced with the decision to accept and deal, or chuck and run. Nowhere is this more evident than when trying a new style out for size, since it changes your appearance in such a drastic manner.

With the right amount of time invested and knowledge of your hair gained, you’ll find your confidence building, and your view of how different styles look on you will gradually change. One day, without even realizing it, you might find yourself stepping out with some Bantu knots or a funky looking Erykah-esque fro, sporting a 100% Nappy Tee, oblivious to the stares.

I’m awaiting the day!

Healthy Hair Wishes,

Keeping in line with the theme of transitioning, again, from the pages of NaturalHairGuide.com, here are some popular protective hair styles ideas that will keep your hair hands free and growing healthily!

Transitioning Styles

by Amy, founder of NaturalHairCareGuide.com

What makes a good transitional hair style? Good questions. A good transitional hairstyle keeps hair handling to a minimum. That doesn’t mean that you can’t or shouldn’t comb or brush your hair while you are transitioning. It just means that less in this case really is more.

Always remember to work with your natural hair and not against it. If you keep this in mind during your transition as well as when you hair is completely natural, you and your hair will be much happier.

Pressing it is NOT the answer
You may be thinking to yourself, “I’ll just press the roots so that they will both be straight while it grows out.”

Bad idea. For one thing going natural means that you are beginning to learn how to work with your hear. You will have to start [somewhere]. Why not now? The skills of tender considerate hair care that you learn now will help you when your hair is completely natural.

The other reason is that you will run the risk of snapping it of at the weakest point, the place where the relaxed hair and natural hair meet.

In general it is best to stay [away] from heat. You have so many other options that shouldn’t be a problem.

Transitional Hairstyles
When choosing a transitional natural hair style it is important to think about how you usually wear your hair. One of the biggest mistakes that many people make is thinking that there is a certain look or that their hair has to look a certain way to be natural. Being natural is being chemical free point blank.

Pick a style that suits you. If you are a conservative person you may want to go with conservative style. If you are daring the sky is the limit. Pick a style or combination of styles that are best for you.

Some good transitional styles are :

• Braids with extensions
• Two Strand Twists
• Comb Coils/Twists
• Straw Sets
• Cornrows with or without extensions
• Braid/Twist Outs

Braids with extensions
Braids have been a normal “in” style for a while now. There are lots of braiding gallery magazines that will give you ideas. Although many of the styles may be pushing the limits a little than you may be comfortable with you can get some good ideas.

When going to get braids DO NOT get micro braids or extra tiny individuals. They are not good for you hair to begin with. And they are an absolute pain to take out. Remember you are looking for styles that will require little handling. Tiny braids are prone to get tangled when you try to take them out. As your hair grows your hair will snap off more when you have to untangle it.

Try to stick with braids that you don’t need a tooth pick or pin to pick out. With the wide variety of extension braid styles finding a hair healthy size shouldn’t be a problem.

Cornrows with or without extensions
If you don’t like sitting for a long time to get braids, but want a style that will last for some time, cornrows are a good choice. Like braids they have been in for a while. Even though cornrows have now become associated with men as well as women there are many very feminine cornrow styles. Braiding books are a good place to look for ideas.

Although not as tedious to take out as tiny braids tiny cornrows especially with extensions can be a pain to take out both literally and figuratively.

Curled Two Strand Twists or Twist Out
I honestly think that two strand twists on relaxed hair only look nice if you curl them. I think that plain two strand twists look straight and stringy on relaxed hair. But that is just my opinion do what suits you best.

To do Curled Two Strand Twists you will need:

• Large tooth comb
• Metal free or Ouchless rubber bands
• Banana Clips
• Moisture lotion
• Curlers (optional)
• End papers (if using curlers)
• Bonnet dryer
• Spray bottle with water.

Directions:

This style is best done when your hair is with freshly washed, detangled, and still damp.

Apply moisture lotion generously through out your hair.

If your hair begins to dry out, mist it with the water in the spray bottle.

Depending on how much new growth you have and how manageable your hair is you may want to use the rubber bands to separate your hair into six or eight sections. Doing this will also keep your hair from drying out.

Starting from the back, part or pull of a small (half inch) square of hair from the rest. Clip the rest out of the way.

Separate that section into two parts and crossing one part over the other until you get to the end.

Put a piece of end paper on your hair, roll and secure.

I’ve found it easiest to work in rows left to right top to bottom.

Sit under a bonnet dryer until your hair dries.

When dry unroll carefully and style with fingers.

I’ve found that you can wear this style for a few days as is. The for a softer look you can un twist the twists. And wear it for a few more days.

Lightly mist your hair with a moisture spray or braid spray daily.

Remember to tie your hair up at night with a silk or satin scarf to preserve the style.

Straw Sets
For a straw set you will need:

• Large tooth comb
• Metal free or Ouchless rubber bands
• Banana Clips
• Moisture lotion
• Setting Gel (alcohol free)
• Drinking straws
• Bobby pins
• Bonnet dryer
• Spray bottle with water.

Directions:

This style is best done when your hair is with freshly washed, detangled, and still damp.

Apply moisture lotion and setting gel generously [throughout] your hair.

If your hair begins to dry out, mist it with the water in the spray bottle.

Depending on how much new growth you have and how manageable your hair is you may want to use the rubber bands to separate your hair into six or eight sections. Doing this will also keep your hair from drying out.

Starting from the back, part or pull of a small (half inch) square of hair from the rest. Clip the rest out of the way.

Take one drinking straw start wrapping your hair around the straw from one end of the drinking straw to the other. You are trying to cover the straw with your hair not roll your hair with the straw. Think tight Shirley Temple curls or long coils.

Secure both ends with bobby pins. Repeat until done

I’ve found it easiest to work in rows left to right top to bottom.

Sit under a bonnet dryer until your hair dries.

When it is dry take the bobby pins out of each end and then gently slide the straw off.

Arrange with your fingers.

Lightly mist your hair with a moisture spray or braid spray daily.

Remember to tie your hair up at night with a silk or satin scarf to preserve the style.

Braid Out or Crinkly Set
Braid-outs look cute curled or uncurled. I think curling gives you more options.

To do Curled Two Strand Twists you will need:

• Large tooth comb
• Metal free or Ouchless rubber bands
• Banana Clips
• Moisture lotion
• Curlers (optional)
• End papers (if using curlers)

Directions:

This style is best done when your hair is damp.

Apply moisture lotion generously [throughout] your hair.

If your hair begins to dry out, mist it with the water in the spray bottle.

Depending on how much new growth you have and how manageable your hair is you may want to use the rubber bands to separate your hair into six or eight sections. Doing this will also keep your hair from drying out.

Starting from the back, part or pull of a square of hair from the rest. The larger the section the larger the crinkle and vice versa. Clip the rest out of the way.

Braid that section to the end.

(optional) Put a piece of end paper on your hair, roll and secure.

I’ve found it easiest to work in rows left to right top to bottom.

(optional ) If you are curling, sit under a bonnet dryer until your hair dries.

When dry unroll carefully and style with fingers.

I’ve found that you can wear this style for a few days as is. The for a softer look you can un twist the twists. And wear it for a few more days.

Lightly mist your hair with a moisture spray or braid spray daily.

Remember to tie your hair up at night with a silk or satin scarf to preserve the style.

Flat Twists

Flat twist can be done straight back like cornrows. You can also flat twist the front and straw set or braid/twist out the back.

To do flat twists you will need:

• Rat tail comb
• Metal free or Ouchless rubber bands
• Banana Clips
• Moisture lotion

Directions:

This style is best done when your hair is damp.

Apply moisture lotion generously [throughout] your hair.

Depending on how much new growth you have and how manageable your hair is you may want to use the rubber bands to separate your hair into six or eight sections. Doing this will also keep your hair from drying out.

Use the back end of the rat tail comb to make straight clean parts.

Put a little bit of gel on the section to be twisted.

Starting at the beginning of the row, separate a small section in to two parts.

Cross one strand over another, pick up hair as you work your way back.

When you get to the end, secure your flat twist with a bobby pin.

###

Thanks again Amy and NaturalHairGuide.com!

There are a good number of you who are taking the naptural plunge and braving to wearing your natural hair, and for that I applaud you. But for as many of you who are picking up the gauntlet, just as many find themselves back on what diehards call “the creamy crack”, after your first month of sacrifice. The road to natural is not an easy one, nor is it for the faint of heart. But remaining in the know about what you can expect, and how to properly transition in a way that’s right for you, can make all the difference in the world.

So for those of you on the front lines, traveling that first leg of the journey, I have scoured the Net to bring you…

What to Expect (When You’re Transitioning)

by Amy, founder of NaturalHairCareGuide.com

I hate to break it to you but it is better to tell you now at the beginning. Ready? Ok. You will have to cut off your relaxer. You may choose to cut it all off at once, or you may trim it gradually. But it will have to go.

Once you have decided to stop relaxing your hair you will want to be natural ASAP. But transitioning can be a lesson in patience. Don’t believe any product that promises to “revert” your relaxed hair back to kinky again.

[Beware] of those telling you to pour beer or any other substance in your hair in an effort to make it “go back.” Relaxing your hair changes the molecular structure of your hair permanently, [and] the only [way] to get rid of it is to cut it off.

But don’t despair. In the end you will have a head full of healthy hair, if you take care of it during the transition process.

Breakage and Shedding

You will have breakage and shedding. You natural hair is stronger than the chemically treated part. The line where the two types meet is a weak point. Conditioning and wearing styles that limit the amount that you have to style your hair will help. In the end the relaxed ends will need to go anyway.

Opposing Opinions

Everyone will not agree with your decision to stop relaxing your hair. You should be prepared for that. If you haven’t already think about why you want to go natural. If you are solid and confident about your decision most people will respect that.

If you know that you are going to face a lot of opposition from friends or family, you may want to be low key about the whole thing. My mother always told me, “You don’t need to give people a stick to beat you with.” There are several transitioning styles that don’t draw attention to what you are doing with your hair.

If your current stylist is not a supporter of natural hair or only knows how to do chemical/heat styling, you may want to find a stylist who will be supportive of your decision.

Change in Hair Care and Routine

During this in between time you’ll need to take care of your hair differently. It will be important to condition and moisturize your hair regularly. You will need to wash your hair and comb your hair in ways that put tangling to a minimum. You will want to find a protective style that is right for you, if you will be growing your hair out and trimming the ends.

Transitioning Facts

How long should I transition?
That really depends on you. You can cut to the chase, do a Big Chop and wear a teeny weenie afro. Or you can grow your hair out so that you will have a little more to work with and take six months or a year or more trimming a inch off every month. Do what makes you feel comfortable.

What are some good transitioning styles?
Styles that cater to your natural hair, while taking into consideration the fact that you still have perm, are always a good choice. Styles that fall into that category would be: wet sets (roller sets, rod sets, straw sets); braids, twists and cornrows; braid-outs, twist-outs, and cornrow-outs; Bantu knots.

Is it a good idea to press out my new growth? What about transitioning with braids?
If your ultimate goal is to be able to wear/style your hair naturally then, relying [on] pressing is out of the question. You are really working against your hair and you are missing the opportunity to get acquainted with your hair in its natural state. Pressing your hair can also subtly, and not so subtly, change the characteristics of your hair by breaking the natural bonds. No amount of washing will bring it back.

Braids can be helpful in the process if done correctly (not too tight) and redone frequently with trims. However you don’t want to become dependent on braids either. Although wearing your hair in braid will not change your hair’s natural characteristics, you still don’t get the opportunity to work with your hair in its natural state. You have to start learning about your hair some time. What better time is there than during the transition period?

Should I go to a professional to get my hair done?
It really depends on you. If you really want to learn how to take care of your hair yourself then no one will ever know your hair better than you. But if you don’t know anything about doing your hair or work in a profession where you hair needs to have a certain look consistently, then you may want to get some help while you are learning. That help could be your co-worker, friend, or church member who happens to have natural hair that looks nice. Ask them what they do and if they would be willing to show you.

If you do decide to get your hair professionally done, try to find a natural stylist (different than a braider) who is willing to educate you on how to take care of your hair at home. Try to pay attention to what she or the other stylists are doing. Take mental notes.

Going to a salon is a great treat but it is best that it is a treat and not a necessity.

Help! My hair is falling out!
Stay calm. Most likely [you] are just experiencing some shedding. Some people experience a lot [while] others barely have very little shedding at all. Remember to be careful with your hair. The point where the natural and the chemically processed hair meets is very fragile. Those chemical ends will have to go some time, but you probably want it to go on your terms.

Split ends tangle easier that well managed ends so you may want to get a trim. Also, if you are loosing a lot of hair when you try to comb your hair out, try finger combing, using combs with wide teeth or detangling/combing in the shower.

The less you handle your hair during this time the less prone it will be to breakage and shedding.

How often should I trim my hair while I am transitioning?
An inch a month seems to be the norm. If you will be trimming your ends yourself make sure that you invest in a good pair of hair trimming scissors. Remember to only use your hair scissors to trim your hair. Cutting other things will dull them.

Why is my scalp itching?
There are many reason that you scalp could be itching. It could be reacting to the products that you are using. It could be dry. It could be just getting use to your new hair routine.

What products should I be using on my hair?
This is a hard question to answer because everyone’s hair is different. What works for me may not work for you. But I can give you some guidelines of things to look for and things to avoid. Look for products that moisturize, have proteins, and humectants (products that draw moisture from the air.) Avoid products that contain perfumes, dyes, petroleum, sulfates, mineral oils, and list of ingredients that look like the come from a chemist’s lab. After that it will be trial and error seeing what works best with your hair.

What should I look for in a good moisturizer?
Water at the top of the list is a good sign. Some good natural moisturizers are aloe vera gel and shea butter.

How often should I wash my hair?
Natural hair loves water, so you can wash it as much as you like as long as you are not using regular shampoos (those with sulfates). Co-Washing will get your hair clean and leave it soft and easy to detangle (very important when you are working with two different hair types.)

What is a co-wash or no-poo?
This is using conditioner or something other than of shampoo to wash your hair. Shampoos have harsh chemicals that can be drying and damaging to your hair. You can find more information about going shampoo free [on the Website].

Are there any safe shampoos?
Yes there are several sulfate free shampoos and shampoos that are better than what you usually find in the store. You can find a list of them here.

What is ACV and what does it do?
ACV stands for apple cider vinegar. You can make a rinse with it by mixing 1 tablespoon of apple cider vinegar with a cup of water. You would pour this over you hair as your final rinse. The rinse is mildly acidic so it helps balances {your] scalp’s pH. It closes the cuticle scales on your hair’s surface, which helps your hair to feel softer, and makes light reflect off your hair’s surface giving your hair a natural shine. It also can help to remove products that build up on the hair’s shaft, which can make hair look dull.

What is scab hair?
Scab hair is a term that refers to the hair that is just below the scalp that has been damaged because of the relaxers/perms. This type of hair may be drier and harder to style. It is not your actual hair, but the remnants of the relaxing process. You may or may not experience this condition. It all depends on how often and how long you relaxed your hair before you decided to go natural.

Source: NaturalHairGuide.com