6 Tips to Care for Black Tresses

by Jack Black

Caring for natural hair requires knowledge. That’s because despite its looks, natural hair is fragile and requires precautions to prevent breakage. Also, it is common for more than one hair texture to grow from the same scalp. So finding products that work for all the textures can be tricky. However, taking the following steps will make hair care more manageable.

1. Keep hair and scalp hydrated. Although water hydrates the hair, the frequency that the hair needs to be washed varies. Some wash their African textured hair anywhere from daily to once every two weeks. Wash as often as necessary to keep tresses healthy. And drink plenty of water daily to hydrate the scalp and hair roots.

2. Find a good shampoo. Steer clear of ingredients that can damage hair, such as alcohol. Experimentation with different shampoos will eventually lead to ones that work well. Purchase a few good products and then alternate them from time to time. This way hair will not build up a resistance to the ingredients in one particular shampoo.

3. Always use a conditioner. Once washed, natural hair tends to tangle. So a conditioner that acts as a detangler is a must. Also, don’t use conditioners that leave the hair feeling straw-like. Choose ones that give hair a soft feel after being rinsed out. Also, deep condition at least once a month to revitalize tresses.

4. Comb and brush hair with care. Often, African textured hair contains many coils or kinks. And each of these twists or bends in the hair is a fragile point susceptible to breakage. So it is imperative not to force a comb or brush through the hair. Trying to comb out knots causes the hair to snap off where the knot begins. Instead, use the fingers to work tangles out of the hair. Then comb through with a wide toothed comb. Choose brushes with boar bristles because they are gentler on the hair than synthetic bristles. Also, natural hair is stressed less when combed while wet. But brushing dampened hair is not advisable.

5. Avoid using damaging items in the hair. Do not wear the hair in tight braids or cornrows. Stay away from abrasive head coverings. They rub against the hair and cause friction, which can lead to breakage. And avoid elastic hair holders and rubber bands when possible. Or choose to use non-break rubber bands. And cut – don’t pull – them out of the hair when removing them. Also, heat damages natural hair. So blow dry or press the hair sparingly.

6. Protect hair while sleeping. Silk does not cause friction with natural hair. So sleep on a silk pillowcase. Silk scarves tend to slip off during slumber. So opt for a silk or satin cap instead. They can be purchased at beauty supply shops or even at mass retail stores. Also, prolong styles such as braids and cornrows by wearing a stocking cap while you sleep.

Keeping African textured hair natural can be challenging. It requires patience and flexibility. Also, some trial and error with products and styling methods is necessary. But by utilizing the above pointers, in time, black hair care will become easier.

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I found this gem of an article on www.articlet.com.

As I mentioned in a previous post, I love coffee.  Actually, thanks to BF Emeritus, I’m a bit of a coffee snob. *lol* But as much as I like drinking it, I hold an affinity for the bean for another reason… It is a wondrous natural beauty aid for both hair and skin.  Here are a few examples:

Coffee: Kitchen Cupboard Beauty Tips

By Cait Johnson

Keeping in line with the theme of transitioning, again, from the pages of NaturalHairGuide.com, here are some popular protective hair styles ideas that will keep your hair hands free and growing healthily!

Transitioning Styles

by Amy, founder of NaturalHairCareGuide.com

What makes a good transitional hair style? Good questions. A good transitional hairstyle keeps hair handling to a minimum. That doesn’t mean that you can’t or shouldn’t comb or brush your hair while you are transitioning. It just means that less in this case really is more.

Always remember to work with your natural hair and not against it. If you keep this in mind during your transition as well as when you hair is completely natural, you and your hair will be much happier.

Pressing it is NOT the answer
You may be thinking to yourself, “I’ll just press the roots so that they will both be straight while it grows out.”

Bad idea. For one thing going natural means that you are beginning to learn how to work with your hear. You will have to start [somewhere]. Why not now? The skills of tender considerate hair care that you learn now will help you when your hair is completely natural.

The other reason is that you will run the risk of snapping it of at the weakest point, the place where the relaxed hair and natural hair meet.

In general it is best to stay [away] from heat. You have so many other options that shouldn’t be a problem.

Transitional Hairstyles
When choosing a transitional natural hair style it is important to think about how you usually wear your hair. One of the biggest mistakes that many people make is thinking that there is a certain look or that their hair has to look a certain way to be natural. Being natural is being chemical free point blank.

Pick a style that suits you. If you are a conservative person you may want to go with conservative style. If you are daring the sky is the limit. Pick a style or combination of styles that are best for you.

Some good transitional styles are :

• Braids with extensions
• Two Strand Twists
• Comb Coils/Twists
• Straw Sets
• Cornrows with or without extensions
• Braid/Twist Outs

Braids with extensions
Braids have been a normal “in” style for a while now. There are lots of braiding gallery magazines that will give you ideas. Although many of the styles may be pushing the limits a little than you may be comfortable with you can get some good ideas.

When going to get braids DO NOT get micro braids or extra tiny individuals. They are not good for you hair to begin with. And they are an absolute pain to take out. Remember you are looking for styles that will require little handling. Tiny braids are prone to get tangled when you try to take them out. As your hair grows your hair will snap off more when you have to untangle it.

Try to stick with braids that you don’t need a tooth pick or pin to pick out. With the wide variety of extension braid styles finding a hair healthy size shouldn’t be a problem.

Cornrows with or without extensions
If you don’t like sitting for a long time to get braids, but want a style that will last for some time, cornrows are a good choice. Like braids they have been in for a while. Even though cornrows have now become associated with men as well as women there are many very feminine cornrow styles. Braiding books are a good place to look for ideas.

Although not as tedious to take out as tiny braids tiny cornrows especially with extensions can be a pain to take out both literally and figuratively.

Curled Two Strand Twists or Twist Out
I honestly think that two strand twists on relaxed hair only look nice if you curl them. I think that plain two strand twists look straight and stringy on relaxed hair. But that is just my opinion do what suits you best.

To do Curled Two Strand Twists you will need:

• Large tooth comb
• Metal free or Ouchless rubber bands
• Banana Clips
• Moisture lotion
• Curlers (optional)
• End papers (if using curlers)
• Bonnet dryer
• Spray bottle with water.

Directions:

This style is best done when your hair is with freshly washed, detangled, and still damp.

Apply moisture lotion generously through out your hair.

If your hair begins to dry out, mist it with the water in the spray bottle.

Depending on how much new growth you have and how manageable your hair is you may want to use the rubber bands to separate your hair into six or eight sections. Doing this will also keep your hair from drying out.

Starting from the back, part or pull of a small (half inch) square of hair from the rest. Clip the rest out of the way.

Separate that section into two parts and crossing one part over the other until you get to the end.

Put a piece of end paper on your hair, roll and secure.

I’ve found it easiest to work in rows left to right top to bottom.

Sit under a bonnet dryer until your hair dries.

When dry unroll carefully and style with fingers.

I’ve found that you can wear this style for a few days as is. The for a softer look you can un twist the twists. And wear it for a few more days.

Lightly mist your hair with a moisture spray or braid spray daily.

Remember to tie your hair up at night with a silk or satin scarf to preserve the style.

Straw Sets
For a straw set you will need:

• Large tooth comb
• Metal free or Ouchless rubber bands
• Banana Clips
• Moisture lotion
• Setting Gel (alcohol free)
• Drinking straws
• Bobby pins
• Bonnet dryer
• Spray bottle with water.

Directions:

This style is best done when your hair is with freshly washed, detangled, and still damp.

Apply moisture lotion and setting gel generously [throughout] your hair.

If your hair begins to dry out, mist it with the water in the spray bottle.

Depending on how much new growth you have and how manageable your hair is you may want to use the rubber bands to separate your hair into six or eight sections. Doing this will also keep your hair from drying out.

Starting from the back, part or pull of a small (half inch) square of hair from the rest. Clip the rest out of the way.

Take one drinking straw start wrapping your hair around the straw from one end of the drinking straw to the other. You are trying to cover the straw with your hair not roll your hair with the straw. Think tight Shirley Temple curls or long coils.

Secure both ends with bobby pins. Repeat until done

I’ve found it easiest to work in rows left to right top to bottom.

Sit under a bonnet dryer until your hair dries.

When it is dry take the bobby pins out of each end and then gently slide the straw off.

Arrange with your fingers.

Lightly mist your hair with a moisture spray or braid spray daily.

Remember to tie your hair up at night with a silk or satin scarf to preserve the style.

Braid Out or Crinkly Set
Braid-outs look cute curled or uncurled. I think curling gives you more options.

To do Curled Two Strand Twists you will need:

• Large tooth comb
• Metal free or Ouchless rubber bands
• Banana Clips
• Moisture lotion
• Curlers (optional)
• End papers (if using curlers)

Directions:

This style is best done when your hair is damp.

Apply moisture lotion generously [throughout] your hair.

If your hair begins to dry out, mist it with the water in the spray bottle.

Depending on how much new growth you have and how manageable your hair is you may want to use the rubber bands to separate your hair into six or eight sections. Doing this will also keep your hair from drying out.

Starting from the back, part or pull of a square of hair from the rest. The larger the section the larger the crinkle and vice versa. Clip the rest out of the way.

Braid that section to the end.

(optional) Put a piece of end paper on your hair, roll and secure.

I’ve found it easiest to work in rows left to right top to bottom.

(optional ) If you are curling, sit under a bonnet dryer until your hair dries.

When dry unroll carefully and style with fingers.

I’ve found that you can wear this style for a few days as is. The for a softer look you can un twist the twists. And wear it for a few more days.

Lightly mist your hair with a moisture spray or braid spray daily.

Remember to tie your hair up at night with a silk or satin scarf to preserve the style.

Flat Twists

Flat twist can be done straight back like cornrows. You can also flat twist the front and straw set or braid/twist out the back.

To do flat twists you will need:

• Rat tail comb
• Metal free or Ouchless rubber bands
• Banana Clips
• Moisture lotion

Directions:

This style is best done when your hair is damp.

Apply moisture lotion generously [throughout] your hair.

Depending on how much new growth you have and how manageable your hair is you may want to use the rubber bands to separate your hair into six or eight sections. Doing this will also keep your hair from drying out.

Use the back end of the rat tail comb to make straight clean parts.

Put a little bit of gel on the section to be twisted.

Starting at the beginning of the row, separate a small section in to two parts.

Cross one strand over another, pick up hair as you work your way back.

When you get to the end, secure your flat twist with a bobby pin.

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Thanks again Amy and NaturalHairGuide.com!

There are a good number of you who are taking the naptural plunge and braving to wearing your natural hair, and for that I applaud you. But for as many of you who are picking up the gauntlet, just as many find themselves back on what diehards call “the creamy crack”, after your first month of sacrifice. The road to natural is not an easy one, nor is it for the faint of heart. But remaining in the know about what you can expect, and how to properly transition in a way that’s right for you, can make all the difference in the world.

So for those of you on the front lines, traveling that first leg of the journey, I have scoured the Net to bring you…

What to Expect (When You’re Transitioning)

by Amy, founder of NaturalHairCareGuide.com

I hate to break it to you but it is better to tell you now at the beginning. Ready? Ok. You will have to cut off your relaxer. You may choose to cut it all off at once, or you may trim it gradually. But it will have to go.

Once you have decided to stop relaxing your hair you will want to be natural ASAP. But transitioning can be a lesson in patience. Don’t believe any product that promises to “revert” your relaxed hair back to kinky again.

[Beware] of those telling you to pour beer or any other substance in your hair in an effort to make it “go back.” Relaxing your hair changes the molecular structure of your hair permanently, [and] the only [way] to get rid of it is to cut it off.

But don’t despair. In the end you will have a head full of healthy hair, if you take care of it during the transition process.

Breakage and Shedding

You will have breakage and shedding. You natural hair is stronger than the chemically treated part. The line where the two types meet is a weak point. Conditioning and wearing styles that limit the amount that you have to style your hair will help. In the end the relaxed ends will need to go anyway.

Opposing Opinions

Everyone will not agree with your decision to stop relaxing your hair. You should be prepared for that. If you haven’t already think about why you want to go natural. If you are solid and confident about your decision most people will respect that.

If you know that you are going to face a lot of opposition from friends or family, you may want to be low key about the whole thing. My mother always told me, “You don’t need to give people a stick to beat you with.” There are several transitioning styles that don’t draw attention to what you are doing with your hair.

If your current stylist is not a supporter of natural hair or only knows how to do chemical/heat styling, you may want to find a stylist who will be supportive of your decision.

Change in Hair Care and Routine

During this in between time you’ll need to take care of your hair differently. It will be important to condition and moisturize your hair regularly. You will need to wash your hair and comb your hair in ways that put tangling to a minimum. You will want to find a protective style that is right for you, if you will be growing your hair out and trimming the ends.

Transitioning Facts

How long should I transition?
That really depends on you. You can cut to the chase, do a Big Chop and wear a teeny weenie afro. Or you can grow your hair out so that you will have a little more to work with and take six months or a year or more trimming a inch off every month. Do what makes you feel comfortable.

What are some good transitioning styles?
Styles that cater to your natural hair, while taking into consideration the fact that you still have perm, are always a good choice. Styles that fall into that category would be: wet sets (roller sets, rod sets, straw sets); braids, twists and cornrows; braid-outs, twist-outs, and cornrow-outs; Bantu knots.

Is it a good idea to press out my new growth? What about transitioning with braids?
If your ultimate goal is to be able to wear/style your hair naturally then, relying [on] pressing is out of the question. You are really working against your hair and you are missing the opportunity to get acquainted with your hair in its natural state. Pressing your hair can also subtly, and not so subtly, change the characteristics of your hair by breaking the natural bonds. No amount of washing will bring it back.

Braids can be helpful in the process if done correctly (not too tight) and redone frequently with trims. However you don’t want to become dependent on braids either. Although wearing your hair in braid will not change your hair’s natural characteristics, you still don’t get the opportunity to work with your hair in its natural state. You have to start learning about your hair some time. What better time is there than during the transition period?

Should I go to a professional to get my hair done?
It really depends on you. If you really want to learn how to take care of your hair yourself then no one will ever know your hair better than you. But if you don’t know anything about doing your hair or work in a profession where you hair needs to have a certain look consistently, then you may want to get some help while you are learning. That help could be your co-worker, friend, or church member who happens to have natural hair that looks nice. Ask them what they do and if they would be willing to show you.

If you do decide to get your hair professionally done, try to find a natural stylist (different than a braider) who is willing to educate you on how to take care of your hair at home. Try to pay attention to what she or the other stylists are doing. Take mental notes.

Going to a salon is a great treat but it is best that it is a treat and not a necessity.

Help! My hair is falling out!
Stay calm. Most likely [you] are just experiencing some shedding. Some people experience a lot [while] others barely have very little shedding at all. Remember to be careful with your hair. The point where the natural and the chemically processed hair meets is very fragile. Those chemical ends will have to go some time, but you probably want it to go on your terms.

Split ends tangle easier that well managed ends so you may want to get a trim. Also, if you are loosing a lot of hair when you try to comb your hair out, try finger combing, using combs with wide teeth or detangling/combing in the shower.

The less you handle your hair during this time the less prone it will be to breakage and shedding.

How often should I trim my hair while I am transitioning?
An inch a month seems to be the norm. If you will be trimming your ends yourself make sure that you invest in a good pair of hair trimming scissors. Remember to only use your hair scissors to trim your hair. Cutting other things will dull them.

Why is my scalp itching?
There are many reason that you scalp could be itching. It could be reacting to the products that you are using. It could be dry. It could be just getting use to your new hair routine.

What products should I be using on my hair?
This is a hard question to answer because everyone’s hair is different. What works for me may not work for you. But I can give you some guidelines of things to look for and things to avoid. Look for products that moisturize, have proteins, and humectants (products that draw moisture from the air.) Avoid products that contain perfumes, dyes, petroleum, sulfates, mineral oils, and list of ingredients that look like the come from a chemist’s lab. After that it will be trial and error seeing what works best with your hair.

What should I look for in a good moisturizer?
Water at the top of the list is a good sign. Some good natural moisturizers are aloe vera gel and shea butter.

How often should I wash my hair?
Natural hair loves water, so you can wash it as much as you like as long as you are not using regular shampoos (those with sulfates). Co-Washing will get your hair clean and leave it soft and easy to detangle (very important when you are working with two different hair types.)

What is a co-wash or no-poo?
This is using conditioner or something other than of shampoo to wash your hair. Shampoos have harsh chemicals that can be drying and damaging to your hair. You can find more information about going shampoo free [on the Website].

Are there any safe shampoos?
Yes there are several sulfate free shampoos and shampoos that are better than what you usually find in the store. You can find a list of them here.

What is ACV and what does it do?
ACV stands for apple cider vinegar. You can make a rinse with it by mixing 1 tablespoon of apple cider vinegar with a cup of water. You would pour this over you hair as your final rinse. The rinse is mildly acidic so it helps balances {your] scalp’s pH. It closes the cuticle scales on your hair’s surface, which helps your hair to feel softer, and makes light reflect off your hair’s surface giving your hair a natural shine. It also can help to remove products that build up on the hair’s shaft, which can make hair look dull.

What is scab hair?
Scab hair is a term that refers to the hair that is just below the scalp that has been damaged because of the relaxers/perms. This type of hair may be drier and harder to style. It is not your actual hair, but the remnants of the relaxing process. You may or may not experience this condition. It all depends on how often and how long you relaxed your hair before you decided to go natural.

Source: NaturalHairGuide.com

In her Journey feature Saturday, Danielle mentioned “co washing”, or Conditioner Only washing for us newbies. So today I thought I’d share an article about the phenomenon long hair wearers are all a twitter about.

NOTE: Although the article specifies “black hair”, I am sure the method is no different for non-black hair. Enjoy!

How to Co-Wash Natural Black Hair

by verbalammo

If you wear your hair natural, you are probably familiar with co-washing, or washing the hair with conditioner only. Conditioner washing avoids harsh results from frequent washing with shampoos and helps to keep natural black hair soft and manageable. Co-washing can be done as often as you’d like, even several times a day (this is a plus for natural hair wearers in the hot days of summer).

Oftentimes the question of “How do I co-wash my hair?” comes up. The answer would seem simple, but there are some steps you can take to get the most benefit from this technique and do it with ease.

* First, find a conditioner that works for your hair type. Search online for keywords “hair types” and narrow your hair type down to one or two close categories. You may be a combo 3c and 4a. This will help you better understand which type of conditioner to purchase among the many available.

* Get to know your ingredients. The long, hard-to-pronounce ingredients on the label can be overwhelming. But with familiarity, you can learn to spot which ingredients you want to keep and which you want to avoid. Ingredients like propylene glycol, cetyl alcohol and panthenol are common. Search online for ingredients lists. One such list can be found at http://sci-toys.com/ingredients/ingredients.html.

* Recommended: Purchase an extended shower head/hose. Handheld shower heads with variable sprays offer the best control for rinsing the hair and are often well worth the investment.

* Rinse the hair with warm water. Avoid water that is too hot (if it initially stings your back, it’s too hot). Cleansing results from the action of water plus cleanser (shampoo and/or conditioner) and agitation (hand movements through the hair). Warm water will clean hair well while hot water can be damaging. While rinsing with water, gently comb your hair with your fingers.

* Apply your conditioner. This can be done in several ways.

(1) Pour a line of conditioner into your hand (as opposed to pouring a dollop) and apply each line onto parted hair sections. Work the conditioner from the roots to the tips. Continue until all the hair is covered.

(2) Squeeze your normal amount of conditioner into a large bowl, preferably plastic. With the shower head, add water to the bowl and mix the water and conditioner well with your hands. Bend your head over the bowl. With a cup or other small container, scoop up some of the mix and pour it onto your hair. You can then lean further over into the bowl and wash your hair with your hands directly over the bowl if you’d like. This allows for even coverage, but note that the conditioner will be more dilute.

(3) Squeeze your normal amount of conditioner into a large clean spray bottle and mix with water. Shake well and spray liberally onto the hair. Again, this mixture will be more dilute than a direct application. This method is great for those who only have minutes to spare in the mornings. Make a large batch of diluted conditioner, spray your hair and rinse out after bathing.

* Comb your hair with a wide-tooth comb with rounded-edge teeth. This step is optional, as there remains a debate as to whether combing while wet does more damage to hair than combing while dry. It has been said that combing while wet can stretch the hair past it’s longest point, thereby causing breakage. However, many who wear their hair natural report that combing while the hair is fully conditioned is the best time for them, as the hair is soft and pliable, leading to less breakage. In either case, comb hair gently by grabbing one small section at a time. Comb from the TIPS first, ensuring there are no snags then work your way to the roots. It’s ok if you cannot comb from root to tip in one stroke. The main idea is to ease tangles and distribute the conditioner evenly.

* Allow the conditioner to set on your hair for at least a few minutes if possible. Both steam from the shower and the conditioner itself will work on your hair during this time. Give yourself a nice salt or sugar scrub while your hair is being conditioned.

* Rinse your hair well, again with warm water. Ease your fingers through each section while the water flows through to remove any remaining conditioner.

* Optional: Apply your hair products at this step — while your hair is dripping wet. Many naturals swear by this technique and believe the best absorption is gained at this time. At the least, your product(s) can be more evenly distributed throughout your hair while it is sopping wet.

* It’s time to dry. Just as with the application, there are several ways to dry your hair.

(1) Dry with a towel. Avoid rubbing your scalp and hair with a towel at all costs! Instead, simply dab and pat your hair dry, or grab sections and squeeze excess water into the towel.

(2) Shake and go. Lay your towel across the back of your shoulders (lengthwise shoulder to shoulder). Grab the bottom corners of the towel and raise it up to your head, almost over your head. Think of Batman’s cape raised up as he jumps off a tall building! With the towel raised, shake your head from side to side (ear to shoulder) and left to right (like saying no), shaking excess water into the towel. This is what I call the “no touch” method. Sometimes drying the hair directly with a towel can remove products you’ve just applied, even helping to separate your freshly-formed coils and spirals. You want your coils to group together to avoid the frizzies. This method is perfect for the warmer months when you possibly can afford to go longer periods with damp hair.

(3) Blow dry, but with care. When blow drying, the use of a diffuser is best. A diffuser will spread the heat from your dryer more evenly and minimize potential heat damage. You can find diffusers at most beauty supply stores at a minimal cost. If you do not have a diffuser, use the low heat or cool setting and blow dry from at least six inches from the furthest part of your hair. Remember, you are not trying to get the hair bone dry — just dry enough to style and go out.

In summary, with the above methods you’ll find shampooing your hair by co-washing is a great alternative to traditional shampooing which can strip your hair of much needed oils and moisture. With just a touch of practice, getting in and out of the shower with a clean head of hair will take less time than applying your makeup, and your hair will benefit greatly from it.

~@~

verbalammo is the owner of My Natural, www.mynatural.com, which provides no-nonsense user reviews for hundreds of products for natural hair care.

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Did you find this article insightful? Feel free to send a message to verbalammo via her MySpace page at www.myspace.com/verbalammo.

NOTE: I discovered this gem of an article on Naturally You Magazine.

I’ve read about the “no poo” phenomenon, and am considering taking the challenge myself. But first, what is this “no poo” thing all about, and is it healthy? This inquiring mind wanted to know and so…

Why You Should Go No ‘Poo
By Christi Colvin

Almost three months ago, I was introduced to the idea of no longer using shampoo. I was intrigued. After looking into it somewhat, I figured I didn’t have anything to lose. So I picked up some baking soda and apple cider vinegar and then took the plunge.

I love the results! There was an adjustment period where I had to play around with the measurements a bit but I finally got the hang of it. I have straight-as-a-board, baby-fine hair that has never held a “do.” After “no ‘poo,” I don’t even have to use styling products. I just blow dry and go; my hair now keeps any style. It’s awesome!

Reality Check

You’re thinking you could never do without shampoo, that your hair would be a big oily mess — but it’s quite the opposite. It’s a supply and demand relationship, much like nursing a baby. The more your baby wants to nurse, the more milk your body produces. If you suddenly stopped nursing your baby there would be a lot of excess milk, engorgement, etc., for a while until your body returned to a state of balance.

The oily secretions of our body are very much the same. The more we strip away the natural oils, the more demand we are creating and the more oils our bodies will make. So if you stop using the surfactants cold turkey, your body will still be overproducing oil and there will be a lot of oil until your body reaches a balance again.

Do it for Your Health

The main reason to go no ‘poo is your health. The number of chemicals in shampoo and other bath and body products is frightening. Your skin is the largest organ on your body. Whatever gets put on your skin gets absorbed into your body, into your bloodstream and into your organs, as has been proven by many studies. Essentially, whatever is toxic to put in your mouth is toxic on your skin as well.

According to Jacqueline Krohn, M.D., in The Whole Way to Natural Detoxification: The Complete Guide to Clearing Your Body of Toxins by Jacqueline Krohn, MD, “Caustic chemicals, such as alkaline solutions, can also penetrate the skin. Once a chemical has penetrated the stratum corneum (the most superficial layer of skin), it moves through the epidermis and into the dermis. Then the rich blood supply of the dermis readily transports the chemical into the bloodstream.”

Chemical Content of Shampoo

Following are just a small sample of the toxins found in most shampoos and their detrimental side effects.

Alcohol, isopropyl (SD-40) is a very drying and irritating solvent and dehydrator that strips your skin’s moisture and natural immune barrier, making you more vulnerable to bacteria, molds and viruses. It is made from propylene, a petroleum derivative, and is found in many skin and hair products, fragrances, antibacterial hand washes as well as shellac and antifreeze. It can act as a “carrier,” accelerating the penetration of other harmful chemicals into your skin.

It may promote brown spots and premature aging of skin. A Consumer’s Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients says isopropyl alcohol may cause headaches, flushing, dizziness, mental depression, nausea, vomiting, narcosis, anesthesia and coma. A fatal ingested dose is one ounce or less.

FD&C color pigments are synthetic colors made from coal tar, containing heavy metal salts that deposit toxins onto the skin, causing skin sensitivity and irritation. Absorption of certain colors can cause depletion of oxygen in the body and death. Animal studies have shown almost all of them to be carcinogenic.

Mineral oil is a petroleum by-product that coats the skin like plastic, clogging the pores. It interferes with skin’s ability to eliminate toxins, promoting acne and other disorders.

Propylene glycol (PG) and butylene glycol are petroleum plastics which act as surfactants (wetting agents and solvents). They easily penetrate the skin and can weaken protein and cellular structure. Commonly used to make extracts from herbs, PG is strong enough to remove barnacles from boats!

Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) are detergents and surfactants that may pose serious health threats. They are used in car washes, garage floor cleaners and engine degreasers — and in 90 percent of personal care products that foam. Animals exposed to SLS experienced eye damage, depression, labored breathing, diarrhea, severe skin irritation and even death.

How to No ‘Poo

Dissolve about 1 tablespoon of baking soda in just enough water to make a paste. Apply this to your roots only; work it in and let it sit for a minute.

In order to stimulate blood flow, clean your pores and get off built up grime, use your finger tips to scrub your scalp. Start by making a circle on the top of your head in the area you’d wear a crown. Focus on the back of this circle to begin with. Next, fill in the circle. This is where your part will be; grease here affects the way your hair looks. Trace while still scrubbing with your fingertips around the bottom edge of the circle. Keep making scrubbing circles underneath each one, drawing lines in circles around your head.

Lastly, scrub the back of your skull and your temples/sideburns. This will result in less grease and more growth. After doing this, your scalp will feel alive. Many women swear their hair grows faster after a visit to the salon — it does, and this massage method is why.

When scrubbing, you’re actually rubbing your fingers back and forth in short movements. Be gentle; you don’t want to break your hair. Next, pour about 2 tablespoons of apple cider vinegar into a cup and add water. (I keep two plastic 12-ounce cups in my shower and just mix when I get in.) After you rinse the baking soda out, pour the apple cider vinegar over the ends of your hair, let it sit for a minute and then rinse it out. That’s all there is to it!

No ‘Poo Troubleshooting

Remember, there is a transition period from two weeks to two months depending on the person. Here are a few tips:

• If your hair becomes frizzy, try using less baking soda or leaving it on for a shorter period of time. Adding honey may also help.
• If your hair becomes greasy, try using less apple cider vinegar, switching to lemon or lime juice, leaving out the honey, and/or using a comb instead of a brush. Also, make sure you’re applying the apple cider vinegar just to the ends of your hair.
• If your scalp itches, try the following essential oils; tea tree, lavender, rosemary. If your hair becomes dry, try a tiny bit of oil (any oil, I use olive) smoothed on bottom of hair.

Ready to make the change? Sure! Don’t be afraid to go no ‘poo. You know how to do it! Enjoy the journey – you’re on your way to a healthier you!

© Christi Colvin

~@~

I found this insightful article at NatureMoms.com.

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So what about you? Think you can “no poo”? Well I’m game to at least try and see how it pans out… quite possibly for In The Mix Friday! I’ll keep you posted. *wink*

Healthy Hair Wishes,

In honour of my first job interview in a great many years, I present to you an article about how they way you choose to wear your tresses can affect the way you’re perceived by present and potential employers. I hope you enjoy.

How Important are Hairstyles in the Workplace

Jet Magazine ~ 11-June-01

Hairstyles can say many things. They speak fashion trends, cultural statements and declarations of individuality. They can also translate into different interpretations, depending on who’s watching and where you are.

Lately, more and more people have been the victims of “bad hair days” because it seems that certain employers have become more concerned with how employees wear their hair than how well they perform on the job.

Many would venture to ask, What’s hair got to do with it? How important are hairstyles in the workplace?

Image is everything on the job and the way a person wears his or her hair does make a statement, says noted etiquette expert Harriette Cole, president and creative director of Profundities, a New York-based image and development production company.

“The first impression you make is a visual one,” she explains to JET. “It’s important to be aware of what your presentation says about you and that includes the way you wear your hair. A conservative version of your hairstyle is going to be more welcomed than one that is more artful. Unfortunately, [Blacks] have come under tremendous scrutiny because of the many different hairstyles we are able to wear.”

Cole, author of How To Be: A Guide To Contemporary Living for African Americans, says that cultural hairstyles such as cornrows (when hair is plaited close to the scalp in a pattern of cornrows), braids, twists (when hair is twisted into coils) and dreadlocks (when hair is palm-rolled and left in its natural state) are the styles most often unwelcomed in the workplace.

Men, she observes, tend to face more resistance than women in the workplace when they choose to stray from conservative hairstyles. “Traditionally men are more conservative and are expected to be more conservative. In America, regardless of race, conservative means shorter, closely cropped hair. If you go from what is the standard to something more free and expressive, it makes sense it would be a lot more resistance to it,” she says.

Janel Rankins doesn’t think that hairstyles should matter in the workplace. The 21-year-old cashier wanted a new look and didn’t think twice about having her hair colored blonde. But when she showed up for her job at the Williamsburg Inn in Williamsburg, VA, Rankins’ bosses complained that her new color was “gold orange” and distracting to coworkers and customers.

She was given a written reprimand that said she could face disciplinary action up to recommended termination if she didn’t switch to a more natural hair color.

“I’m not doing anything wrong,” argues Rankins. “I just want my hair blonde. I saw White people with blonde hair, and I liked it. I thought it would look cute on me. I love it! I plan to keep it. I’ve gotten a lot of compliments.”

She filed a complaint with the Equal Employment Opportunity Commission (EEOC) office in Norfolk, VA, over the incident, claiming that the hotel’s appearance policies were discriminatory.

Regis C. Frazier Jr., a 31-year-old strategic market manager at FedEx Express in Aurora, IL, has wanted to wear his hair in twists for several years now. He’s been apprehensive about wearing them because of his job.

“Twists aren’t considered conservative. I work for a very conservative company,” says Frazier. “People who’ve worn dreadlocks to work have been frowned upon. So, if I wore twists, it would cause controversy. If something is different and someone doesn’t understand it, they will question it. Most people don’t understand what twists are and question [the style]. People will move from something they’re afraid of.”

City government workers recently have been making headlines all across the country because of the way they choose to wear their hair.

Willie Gafney’s crowning glory was never a major concern for him in all of his 10 years as a D.C. firefighter. Battling ravaging blazes were. But a few months ago Gafney found himself fighting to keep his near-waist-length dreadlocks. For religious reasons, a Nazarite vow he took nine years ago prevents him from cutting his hair.

Gafney was suspended when new D.C. Fire Chief Ronnie Few began enforcing a four-year-old department regulation, in March, limiting the length of beards and hair for safety and appearance reasons. Few argued that if hair is too long, firefighters will not be able to fit their hair under their fire helmets. Gafney readily showed that for a decade now he has always worn a skullcap that allows him to put his helmet on with no problems.

“I plan to fight this,” Gafney told the Washington Post. “I don’t think [Few] has the right to force his opinion on other people if it’s going to violate their religious beliefs.”

The D.C. firefighters union and the American Civil Liberties Union (ACLU) were considering challenging the suspensions in court, at JET press time.

Baltimore police officer Antoine Chambers, 32, says that hair doesn’t have anything to do with job duties, so he’s been battling the Baltimore police department since he was reassigned from his beat as a uniformed officer to a desk duty answering non-emergency calls because of his dreadlocks.

“You’re trying to tell me I’m not good enough to be out in the community because of my hair?” Chambers asserts. “There is a shortage of police. At the time of my suspension, homicide was at an all-time high. We need people to relieve this matter, and they are worried about my hair.”

Chambers’ Northern Division commander issued an instruction forbidding personnel from wearing locks, braids or cornrows. Chambers told police officials that his religion, Rastafarian, precluded him from complying with instruction. He was then reassigned.

“[Police officers] are required to wear a uniform cap, so you [cannot] see my hair at all. Caucasian officers wear the long French braid down their back and it’s not a problem. It’s a double standard,” says Chambers, an eight-year veteran.

“You have important issues of cultural expression and self-expression that a hairstyle can make for a person,” explains Sullivan. “Not only is it inappropriate for employers to impose restrictions of appearance on employees, but there are benefits to having people who manifest diverse cultures in the workplace. People oftentimes say they want to see someone who looks like them. There is a benefit government jobs can derive from having employees with a diverse appearance.”

COPYRIGHT 2001 Johnson Publishing Co. || COPYRIGHT 2001 Gale Group

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I found this insightful article in the business library files of BNET.com.

Natural Hair Care

by Ms SNIPS of OurHair.net

Do you remember seeing your first Afro? Where you impressed, jealous, disgusted or shocked? Nothing gains a second look faster than a person of African or Ethnic descent wearing what God gave them naturally.. Whether you are on one side of the fence or the other about natural styles, their beauty is undeniable. Over the last 40 or so years, hair worn in its natural state has been as much about politics as it has been about personal choice. During the turbulent ’60′s and ’70′s hair worn naturally was about freedom more so than a sense of style. It was an attempt by people of color to embrace their individuality.

As we moved into the 1980′s, a more businesslike attitude overtook the country and our hair conformed right along with it. Relaxers where more popular than ever and the Jeri Curl was being born (thank heavens it died!).

Now we fast forward to the new millennium and people of color are redefining themselves and their commitment to hair that’s been fried, dyed and laid to the side. Once again, the hairstyles worn by African American and Ethnic women point to a new sense of pride and acceptance of natural hair.

Embracing this fierce new acceptance of self is a breed of woman who is dropping the lye habit in droves. Popular culture reflects this trend in commercials showing nappy heads in corporate offices, theatres, and malls, driving expensive autos and chatting via cell.

Many women who are either considering dropping the lye habit, transitioning, newly natural or have been natural for years, have all come from a common place of thought about their hair. They were tired of the chemicals, the long waits at the salon, the scabs and burns, the fear of anything touching our hair (even our men) and the thin lifeless beast relaxers left us them. For them, to no longer relaxer gave them truly wash and wear hair. In this article, we will walk you through the process of going natural and how to take care of a style the newly natural you!

Relaxed But Considering Natural Hair

I know, your relaxed hair is as long as you have ever had it. Your man thinks you look slamming with that bra strap length straight n’ shiny stuff. Your mamma would slap you if you ever cut off “all that hair”. If you are happy with it relaxed, wear it, but take good care of it. However, if you are considering dropping the lye habit, you will be in good company as many women are doing just that.

Deciding to wear your hair fully natural will be perhaps one of the greatest fears you overcome as a woman, especially if you are a woman of color. Deeply ingrained cultural values that uphold straightened, long hair as the norm for women of color and look down on nappy, shorter hair will be difficult to overcome. Your family and friends will either be the greatest supporters or the worse enemies of your ego and confidence.

You may find it helpful to visit discussion forums and boards like OurHair Voices or Nappturality.com and participate in talks with fellow natural hair wearers. Also, frequent websites that feature natural hairstyles, such as HairWeb.com [no longer live]. Most importantly, if you do meet with opposition to your natural hair choices, find a way to communicate your right to wear your hair as you please.

How To Go Natural

Because the process of going natural is a fairly lengthy topic, we cannot devote the space here to the task, however, there are many good books on the subject listed in OurHair Products section.

Now That It’s Natural?

There are five things you should keep in mind when dealing with natural, kinky, nappy super curly hair:

• What we traditionally have called nappy hair is just super curly hair, with tight, spring like coils. The coils can vary in size, texture, density and width. When they clump together, they can appear as ringlets. When they separate, as during combing, they frizz into the look we have all come to associate as being nappy.
• Caring for your hair properly means creating a regular hair care routine to counteract dryness, which can contribute to breakage.
• Remember that moisture is your friend. Water is the best moisturizer around.
• Treat hair as a type of fiber, and handle it as such. You would not subject silk fabric to extreme heat or rough handling therefore you should be just as gentle with your hair.
• Find a style, or set of styles that work with your natural texture and not against it. Kinky, curly, nappy, super curly hair is exceedingly beautiful and can be molded into many shapes and forms.
• The use of oils and creams will make the hair feel soft and more flexible. Avoid oils and creams that contain mineral oil or petroleum. Skin and scalp experts feel that these chemicals can block and clog your scalp’s natural ability to produce sebum. If you cannot totally avoid these chemicals, then try to choose products that have them several items away from the top of the ingredient list. Usually the further from first place an ingredient is, the less of it is in the product.
• Some natural oils to try are olive oil, shea (shay) butter, jojoba and safflower. For more information about oils, see our OurHair Products section.
• The best way to apply oils is by first wetting the hair, then applying the oil over it. The oil will help to trap and hold the moisture water adds. Creams usually contain water and are a great in between pomade for refreshing a style or on days you do not wash or wet your hair.
• The type of oil or cream you use in your hair is going to depend on your hair type and may take a little it of experimenting to find what works best for you. Also, the time of year and your hair’s exposure to the elements will vary your routine.
• You will find that although natural hair can be washed daily, you may not want to. African textured and Ethnic hair tends to be dry and shampooing can worsen that condition due to the detergents. A better idea is to rinse your hair with plain water daily and then shampoo every 3rd to 7th days. Towel-blot, don’t rub hair.
• How often you rinse or shampoo will depend on your activities and your how your hair responds, but generally speaking, out hair reacts better to fewer exposures to detergent and more exposures to plain water.
• If you prefer not to rinse your hair daily, at least mist it with a bottle of water to moisturize the hair fibers.

Handling Natural Hair

• If you are working with truly African textured hair the most gentle handling can be accomplished while your hair is freshly conditioned and still wet with a WIDE toothed pick-not comb! You may even find that your hair combs easily while you are under the direct spray of your shower so that as the water flows through the hair, your pick will as well.
• If you comb your hair while it is dry, mist it with a bit of water first or apply a little cream pomade to help the comb glide rather than catch. Go slowly and if you encounter a tangle or knot, loosen it with your fingers, then continue combing.
• When you rinse or shampoo, keep the hair in a straight back position and only rub in one direction. This can help to prevent tangling and matting.
• The use of brushes should be kept to a minimum and used to distribute oils or creams. Invest in a soft boar hairbrush. More information can also be found in the OurHair Care section.
• Include a pH balanced shampoo specially formulated for your hair texture and type, a moisturizing conditioner and a shining gel or spray that adds luminous sheen while it conditions and protects your hair.
• Try to avoid styling products that contain alcohol, as they can further dry your hair.

• Try to give blow dryers and curling irons a break. Instead, consider a hairstyle that works with, not against your hair. Popular choices include braiding, cornrows or thread wraps. Don’t, however, leave braids in place for more than 60 days. Give your hair and yourself a break from prolonged stress. Also, remember to continue regular shampooing and conditioning while wearing braided styles to keep your hair healthy and moisturized.
• If you have color treated hair, condition weekly to add moisture and offset drying from chemicals.
• Before you go to bed, wear something to protect your hair during sleep. Use a scarf or cap for straight hairstyles. Apply a small amount of moisturizer to the hair and then put on your cap.
• To avoid rubbing and to stop hairline breakage, never sleep in any type of hair band that will rub the hairline. If you use a sleep cap, make sure it’s satin and that it does not go above the ears. You can also resort of a satin pillowcase if you cannot keep a cap or scarf on.
• Massage the scalp regularly to encourage oil production.
• Once a month try a hot oil treatment, which will lubricate dry scalp conditions as well as moisturize brittle hair.

Styles For Natural Hair*

Lengthen It

To showcase the length of natural hair, try wetting then braiding it in large sections. After it is dry, you can do a large roller set or use a WARM curling iron to smooth each section. This will help to enhance the shine because the hair will be lying flatter and the length because it will have dried stretched.

Roll It

While you hair is still wet from a shampoo or rinsing, takes pencil to maker sized sections and roll them around in a twirling fashion either around one finger, or between finger and thumb. The tighter your coil, the longer and skinnier the resulting coil will be. The looser you twirl, the fatter and shorter the curl.

Curl it

Use the tail end of a rattail comb like a hair roller and do African Curls, also known as Comb Rolls. Take a damp, gelled section of hair the size you prefer and while holding the tail of the comb against the hair, wrap the end of the hair over the comb. Once the end is wrapped, roll the comb tail towards your scalp, as if rolling your hair in a roller. When you reach the scalp, slide the comb out of the roll. Complete all sections, let air dry, or wrap a scarf over your hair and sit under a COOL dryer until 80% dry. The roll will tighten more as it totally dries.

‘Fro It

For this look, simply wet set your hair using a pomade or oil for moisture and hold. The size of the rollers will determine the size of the ‘fro. Large rollers will give you a voluminous, looser fro, while smaller ones will give you a tighter curlier fro. A variation on this style is to separate wet or dampened hair into sections and plait or twist each piece and wrap the hair around the base of the plait or twist. When the hair is dry, loosen the twists or braids gently and finger comb into place.

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I found this gem of an article on OurHair.net.

Vitamins and Minerals that Promote and Stimulate Hair Growth in Men and Women

by Matt Adler

NOTE: Because I will be on the road and away from the “Interwebs” over the weekend, my next set of posts will be “guest” feature articles on the topics of hair care, products, and techniques. I hope you enjoy them, and if you find the resources insightful, do not hesitate to contact the author and let them know.

Get Creative With Homemade Recipes

by verbalammo

Do you wear your hair natural? No lye? As many will tell you, once you make a change to go natural your hair regimen must also change. This frequently includes an adjustment to the types of products you use on your coils. A number of your old stand-bys may no longer lend you the same results on your kinks as they did on your straight hair.

Product junkies will agree — you can spend hundreds of dollars testing out the numerous products available on the market, many of which are supposedly intended for natural hair use. However, breaking the bank is really not necessary for a healthy, strong and shiny natural. You already have key ingredients in your own kitchen and bathroom!

Creating your own hair recipes not only saves money, but allows for a more intimate relationship with your hair — you can gain a much better insight as to what your hair craves, prefers, or rejects with your at-home experiments.

Get creative! There are a few simple rules to follow to find your perfect concoctions:

* Don’t mix too many things at once. Start out with simple recipes, say, mixing one main ingredient and adding a small amount of another. It’s much easier to determine what worked and what didn’t when your ingredients list is limited.

* Create two-ingredient mixes and try them until you find a mix that works well on your hair. If it’s a “perfect” mix, continue using it! If it’s a “pretty good” mix, retry the recipe with the same main ingredient then alter the secondary ingredient until you reach perfection. You may find you need to reverse the amounts used, making the main ingredient the secondary ingredient.

* If there is one particular ingredient you find most always works well on your hair, make it a staple for your hair recipes, adding it as a standard part of all your recipes.

* Alter the way you apply the mixes to your hair. Try dousing your hair with your Super Yogurt Surprise while your hair is drenching wet in the shower. Does it work well this way? Try another time by making it a bit more liquidy and spritz it on your dried hair with a spray bottle. Perhaps your hair responds better to this application.

* For ingredients, a general rule of thumb is if it’s ok to ingest, it’s probably ok to apply to your hair as well. Pureed fruit, honey, apple cider vinegar and many more items are great additions to homemade hair recipes.

* Take note of what works for you and how it worked. Some recipes may be better for clarifying while others make for great deep conditioners.

* Search and compare! If you’re a little timid about applying egg whites to your hair, make use of resources available to you before doing so. Search the Internet for your particular ingredients. You just may find others who have tried the same type of recipe and enjoyed success or experienced a nightmare.

* Go beyond your kitchen! Many cities have well-stocked health food and natural stores with a huge selection of ingredients to boost your hair recipes. Experiment with essential oils (a few drops go a long way!), xanthum gum (a thickener, also known as xanthan), as well as conditioners and leave-ins you won’t likely find at department stores and drug stores.

Remember, a recipe failure is a good thing. It lets you know what your hair simply does not respond to well. The worst likely thing that can happen with the use of your homemade products is the need to wash your hair again, so get creative!

Note: Use of homemade mixes for coloring of hair is not recommended.

~@~

verbalammo is the owner of My Natural, www.mynatural.com, which provides no-nonsense user reviews for hundreds of products for natural hair care.

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Did you find this article insightful? Feel free to send a message to verbalammo via her MySpace page at www.myspace.com/verbalammo.

NOTE: I discovered this gem of an article on Naturally You Magazine.