
If you’ve spent any time in any of the Black hair care forums you’ve probably been privy to post upon post of napturals rattling off a confusing list of lettered numbers when it comes to their hair type.
“Oh girl, I’m a 4A, no doubt about it.”
“My 3C tresses poof like Poodle hair when there’s even the slightest bit of humidity.”
“My bangs are 8z, while my crown is 36-24-36xmp! Yeah… Crazy, right?”
I remember the first time someone asked me what my hair type was and all I could tell them was coarse, which was responded to with a sigh of exasperation and an exaggerated eye roll. Honestly, up until the end of last year I truly thought hair types were graded simply by the texture’s description: straight, wavy, curly or kinky. That’s what all the books say. Well much to my unenlightened surprise, it seems that Andre Walker, Oprah‘s own Emmy winning stylist and author of Andre Talks Hair!, broken down the simplistic and created a hair type classification system to help “us” determine what type of hair we’re working with. And that system reads as such:
Type 4: Kinky or very tightly coiled hair, which appears coarse but is very fine, wiry and very fragile. Typically healthy type 4 hair does not shine but does possess sheen. It is soft to the touch and will feel silkier than it will look shiny.
Type 3: Hair with well defined curls that appear straight when wet but revert back to its curly state when it dries, the hair goes back to its curly state. Humidity tends to make type 3 hair curlier or even frizzier.
Type 2: Wavy hair that tends to be coarse and possesses a definite S pattern to it.
Type 1: Straight hair. That’s about it.
In addition to these classifications, each hair type has a particular “sub type” which are:
Type 4 Sub Types:
- Type 4A: Tightly coiled hair that, when stretched, has an S pattern, much like curly hair.
- Type 4B: Similar to 4A but possesses a Z pattern with less of a defined curl pattern.
NOTE: Type 4A tends to have more moisture than Type 4B, which will have a wiry texture.
Type 3 Sub Types:
- Type 3A: Loosely curled hair, usually characterized with very shiny with big curls if long, but appear straighter when short.
- Type 3B: Hair that possesses a range from medium curl to tight corkscrews.
NOTE: It’s not unusual to see a mixture of these types existing on the same head. Curly hair usually consists of a combination of textures, with the crown being the curliest part.
Type 2 Sub Types:
- Type 2B: Medium-textured.
- Type 2C: Thick and coarse.
NOTE: Type 2A is very easy to handle, blowing out into a straighter style or taking on curlier looks with relative ease. Types 2B and 2C are a little more resistant to styling and have a tendency to frizz.
source: http://diasporahaircare.invisionzone.com/index.php?showtopic=10283
Seems much ado about nothing, or an overblown mapping of the way we’ve been classifying our hair for years, right? I mean, if you look at it all closely, all it’s really saying is hair can be one of four textures: straight, wavy, curly or kinky. So why even bother ascribing to Andre’s system? Well, as you can see from the sub types listed, with the exception of straight hair, not all wavy, curly, or kinky hair is created equal. Furthermore, in any one head of African-American/ethnic/multi-racial hair it is highly probable that a combination of those listed types and sub types are present (Suni spoke of this in her feature last year). For example, The Lion has a mixture of type 2A/3B spanning from the nape of his neck up to the he middle of the back of his head, and 4A /2B along his crown and sides:

NOTE: Yeah, my camera sucks, and yeah… I “strong armed” him into doing this. *lol*
Although all of his hair is soft, as you can see in first picture, the hair at at the lower back of his head is really “thin” and curly, while the rest is dense and coiled. Of course, since the only styling he indulges in is weekly or bi-weekly line ups, him having diverse textures really isn’t a big deal, but the information is still good for him to know when deciding on products that work for his combined hair types (for the record, he uses Garnier Fructis Triple Nutrition Shampoo, Coconut Oil and Carol’s Daughter’s Healthy Hair Butter, but the pics were taken early morning and he hadn’t had a chance to dress it yet). For those of us who indulge in a bit more styling processes, knowing which types make up the whole of our hair will help determine which styles will work for your hair type, as well as which products will benefit you. The way to best find your type(s) is to do strand tests on various places in your hair by plucking or cutting small portions of your natural hair (or possibly acquiring shed hair from your comb or brush) and comparing them on a white piece of paper or napkin.
Now there are those who ascribe to this typing system as the gospel truth of hair classification while others see it as a sophisticated and sly way of further labeling hair as “good” or “bad” for the new millennium (or, for some, a way of weeding out who is naptually intelligent and who is nappily ignorant since this system only seems to be “known” in certain natural circles). It’s not for me to judge one way or the other, but what I will say is whether you classify your hair at 4a, 3b, or just flat out coarse and kinky, it is beneficial to know your hair’s type, for the aforementioned reasons.
Healthy Hair Wishes!
